Again, I find I'm almost a week behind on my posts (as this all happened last weekend). Meh, I guess it's all the same to everyone anyways right? (If you're reading this post 5 years from now, and find that the time-delay of one week really screwed with your reading experience then... you're messed up, pal).
This/That/Whatever week has been tough, and combined with the past few I needed some time away (as far away as possible while still being in Thailand) and while we didn't have time to make it to one of the islands (I STILL haven't been yet, and that bugs me) we did get to go to Rajaprapa to see the local lake made when the dam was set up. Now, at first glance that doesn't seem to interesting, I mean sure a pristine lake of clear blue water is nice but I could find that thing in the US right? WRONG! For these reasons I will list........now:
1) It's surrounded by gigantic Asian Mountains, I mean those kinda mountains you see in the final scenes of Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon; jutting straight up and covered in jungle growth and 90degree angles to the ground
2) You get around on a motorized bamboo raft, which at first doesn't sound special but you haven't tried it yet.
3) Caves, really cool ones.
and if that hasn't impressed (honestly, as I write it sounds a little lame to even myself) then here's the kicker:
4) You stay, eat and drink on a bar/bungalo that is floating off on the middle of the lake. Nearly everything but the toilet (which you take a ramp to a steep hill which you climb to get to) is on a raft of some kind. The house, the bar, the dock, the whatever else you can think of is floating and lashed/nailed to something floating next to it.
Yeah, it was sweet. We got there after about an hour long boat ride around those crazy mountains (pics by someone else somewhere on FB if you really gotta see) and immediately after arriving about three people dump their things at the dock/bar and just fall over the edge into the water. This started hours of swimming, kayaking and overall lounging in, on and around the water and all things that float in what can easily be described as one of the most relaxing lakes I've ever found. "I'm cold now" find the next floating thing, be it bungalo, bar, kayak or person and get on it/them. "I'm hot now" fall off back into the water. I could really get used to that.
There were partially submerged trees we climbed and jumped off of, there was many, many kayak flippings (and one sinking, leaving the guy out in the middle of the river holding on to a tree for dear life as one of us went out to save his sorry ass), great food, $1-2 beers (pretty damn expensive here, but not bad if you're reading in the US) and a few monkey sightings which took place when a bunch of us took off on another raft to go take a hike through the jungle and look at some of the caves led by a kid with a desk-lamp attached to a car-battery in a backpack.
Towards the end of the day we were all very, very relaxed and rested; dozing on the side of whatever we were floating on now (mostly the bungalos) or lazily bobbing in the nearby water. After the boatride back we all napped on the busride back to Surat (about an hour), ate and felt like the whole week's been worth it.
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
The Food: Better than you thought (and you thought it was the best this side of Paris)
Okay, so let me start by saying two things:
1) Yes, of course I had diarrhoea. Massive, soul shattering shits that felt like I was loosing my spine and lasted days. If that's too graphic, that's too bad because you're reading what my anus and I experienced.
2)I only had pad/phad thai once; it was "meh"
Now that those two are out of the way: There's a lot of food in Thailand. More than in America, and that includes the adopted foreign dishes like pizza, spaghetti, the taco, etc. The dishes come by the hundreds and variations by the street corner as everyone makes it their own way (chain restaurants only found in the big malls). I've had pretty much everything from kao phad gai (rice with chicken, and main staple of quite a few expats here as it's easy to say, not spicey and easy on the stomach), to random curries to tom yum a wicked spicey and totally native soup of which only about 20% of the actual ingredients in the soup (aside from the broth) are actually edible.
The portions here are what is best described as "stomach size"; hard to get used to at first but becomes a blessing as the "stuffing yourself silly" and feeling like crap after going to a restaurant are now totally nonexistant. It should also be said that I have not made any food since arrival (not even a pot of hot water) since meals are (even by local standards) ridiculously cheap: $30 baht ($1) per meal is the norm and on my street there is a place about every 30 feet selling something different. Oh, yeah, and it's as fresh as your wildest dreams can think of, especially the seafood (which is Surat's claim to fame along with coconuts and rambutan <-- lookit up).
Now, eating out for breakfast lunch and dinner and with all this good food (that I eat whenever the Hell I feel like and as much as I want) you'd think "But Terry, what about your already dangerously high weight/cholesterol/blood pressure?". That's the best part! I can eat literally as much as I want and I am loosing pounds. This is in part due to: the heat, it's frakking hot here and I sweat in air-conditioned rooms; the previously mentioned portion sizes; and all the food here is just a bit healthier than a Five Guy's Burger with Spicey Fries and Shake ;)
Well, I bet you were hoping for more of a step-by-step replay of my favourite meals a la Food Channel with descriptions to make your mouth water and wish you were here. Ha! I don't need to do that to know you already want to be here so tough cookies (oh, the cookies here are exotic and amazing). 'Sides, I ain't no Bourdain and if you want that kinda stuff a picture (or video) is worth a thousand words so instead of reading my prose, go watch the Travel Channel a bit ;)
Next Post: More work, and a trip to monkey-lake-dam-place!
1) Yes, of course I had diarrhoea. Massive, soul shattering shits that felt like I was loosing my spine and lasted days. If that's too graphic, that's too bad because you're reading what my anus and I experienced.
2)I only had pad/phad thai once; it was "meh"
Now that those two are out of the way: There's a lot of food in Thailand. More than in America, and that includes the adopted foreign dishes like pizza, spaghetti, the taco, etc. The dishes come by the hundreds and variations by the street corner as everyone makes it their own way (chain restaurants only found in the big malls). I've had pretty much everything from kao phad gai (rice with chicken, and main staple of quite a few expats here as it's easy to say, not spicey and easy on the stomach), to random curries to tom yum a wicked spicey and totally native soup of which only about 20% of the actual ingredients in the soup (aside from the broth) are actually edible.
The portions here are what is best described as "stomach size"; hard to get used to at first but becomes a blessing as the "stuffing yourself silly" and feeling like crap after going to a restaurant are now totally nonexistant. It should also be said that I have not made any food since arrival (not even a pot of hot water) since meals are (even by local standards) ridiculously cheap: $30 baht ($1) per meal is the norm and on my street there is a place about every 30 feet selling something different. Oh, yeah, and it's as fresh as your wildest dreams can think of, especially the seafood (which is Surat's claim to fame along with coconuts and rambutan <-- lookit up).
Now, eating out for breakfast lunch and dinner and with all this good food (that I eat whenever the Hell I feel like and as much as I want) you'd think "But Terry, what about your already dangerously high weight/cholesterol/blood pressure?". That's the best part! I can eat literally as much as I want and I am loosing pounds. This is in part due to: the heat, it's frakking hot here and I sweat in air-conditioned rooms; the previously mentioned portion sizes; and all the food here is just a bit healthier than a Five Guy's Burger with Spicey Fries and Shake ;)
Well, I bet you were hoping for more of a step-by-step replay of my favourite meals a la Food Channel with descriptions to make your mouth water and wish you were here. Ha! I don't need to do that to know you already want to be here so tough cookies (oh, the cookies here are exotic and amazing). 'Sides, I ain't no Bourdain and if you want that kinda stuff a picture (or video) is worth a thousand words so instead of reading my prose, go watch the Travel Channel a bit ;)
Next Post: More work, and a trip to monkey-lake-dam-place!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Sorry about the absence...
But it's gunna continue for a bit. Work, training, eating delicious food and such has kept me a bit busy (and out of my favourite Internet cafe) but I promise some good stuff when I return. Look forward to:
Movies in Thailand
Big Food Recap: A little more than pad thai
Trip to a lake: I saw a monkey!
Movies in Thailand
Big Food Recap: A little more than pad thai
Trip to a lake: I saw a monkey!
Thursday, May 19, 2011
First Full Day
I didn't honestly believe that leaving America to teach abroad would be an extended vacation, easier still than the part time retail gig I was pushing back in the States; playing with kids, living in a tropical paradise and working maybe 20 hours a week (okay, so maybe I did kinda hope for a while there). However, today the ball dropped, a giant, lead ball dropped on my little, thatch tiki hut of a dream world. No longer will I be working at an afterschool program with small classes (even the largest is only fifteen students) that don't start 'till 16:30 with plenty of prep time beforehand. Oh no, I will be starting at 10:00 every day, with up to 3 classes, some over thirty students, and with no morning prep (unless I deign it necessary to wake up early on my own time).
That is the new life of this English Teacher: full time. Oh yeah, baby, it's begun.
My classes went exactly as I thought: loud, chaotic, soul crushing. The kids don't listen and I spent the entire time shouting just for kids to get out pencils. While I no long feel the lost emptiness and lack of hope that the first day at the After-School Program, even experienced teachers were feeling the hurt of these crazy kids. I will say that the added presence of a Thai Teacher in the room proved to be absolutely necessary (especially with my over-soft and under-developed style of teaching) as just a mere look would quiet a student and a rap on the desk the entire class. Without them I would be utterly useless as a teacher and I already owe one a stack of paper I had to steal (showing up completely unprepared...)
And tomorrow I do it all again (hopefully a little more prepared this time, though).
Oh, and the day had started so well too, I had my first morning run and felt like an absolute king by the end. >_<
That is the new life of this English Teacher: full time. Oh yeah, baby, it's begun.
My classes went exactly as I thought: loud, chaotic, soul crushing. The kids don't listen and I spent the entire time shouting just for kids to get out pencils. While I no long feel the lost emptiness and lack of hope that the first day at the After-School Program, even experienced teachers were feeling the hurt of these crazy kids. I will say that the added presence of a Thai Teacher in the room proved to be absolutely necessary (especially with my over-soft and under-developed style of teaching) as just a mere look would quiet a student and a rap on the desk the entire class. Without them I would be utterly useless as a teacher and I already owe one a stack of paper I had to steal (showing up completely unprepared...)
And tomorrow I do it all again (hopefully a little more prepared this time, though).
Oh, and the day had started so well too, I had my first morning run and felt like an absolute king by the end. >_<
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Muay Thai Day 1 Part 2: First Class and the Sweat Monster returns!
My first class was supposed to take place at 13:00 with one other student who apparently had already had a fight under his belt and was coming for a more technical training regimen. What actually happened was class began at almost 14:00 with two students one who I can only assume is the aforementioned fighter and a younger girl and it looked like I outweighed both of them put together.
Class began slowly with an instruction on how to stand and face your opponent, during which time it was discovered I was a Southpaw. After which we learned to step, move and stay in guard while we did it. Did a few dodging drills and movement practice for a bit.
The class seemed to be going well, with Master Somboon giving instruction first in English then Thai and with K observing and giving corrections during drills. It'll take a while before I get the hang of keeping my guard up and maintaining balance while moving, but that's what practice is all about anyways.
By this time the crippling Thai heat (which at times is the hardest part about the move) and the constant motion and the new strain of having to keep my guard up all the time made me a walking water monster, covering the floor and any poor sap next to me in sweat droplets. As we did stepping and moving practice I would draw lines and patterns on the mat with the constant trickle of water that followed me.
After a bit of practice Master Somboon stops us and gives us a brief speech on how the first class was usually only forward and backwards motion, but that he was abbreviating our training for some reason. We were now to learn the jab. This practice was a bit harder and as it was the first time I was ever to learn how to throw a proper punch (karate most definitely does not count) I was beyond excited. We learned to how lean and step in cover our chin at all times and how to return to guard. After this we practised in front of mirrors for a few minutes, sweat being flung from my arms with every swing.
After about ten minutes or so of that Master Somboon stopped us again and after describing how trainees used to be taught the jab for a whole day and didn't learn anything new till the next class, which is why were all very honoured when he believed we were ready for the jab-cross-jab (1,2,3) combination. Getting to punch with "the knockout" hand was even more fun than the jab and while we still hadn't actually hit anything but air yet, you could be the potential destructive force behind each swing. We practised the 1-2-3 combo for a while with movement with Master Somboon and K making corrections on our form and stance.
Then again, after a little while of that, Master Somboon stopped us again and told us how on the second day the students learned nothing but the 1-2-3 combo and had to usually wait for any kicks, but since we were doing so well he decided to move up the schedule again! I was pretty used to hearing this statement by now and wasn't surprised, but I was happy to learn my first kick in Muay Thai. It turned out to be the push kick, or teep, and this was the best part because after a little instruction and observation we put in front of the bags and got to finally let loose and feel some impacts. Seeing the massive bag swing in huge arcs after a good kick felt great and the impact was something I'd yearned for since the first day of kid's karate.
That pretty much ended up the class with us hitting the bags for a short while (my sweat was now flying everywhere) and we were given water and sat around chatting for a while, watching Master Somboon play fetch with his two huge dogs and a couple of coconuts.
Just in case anyone was wondering if my posts will become one big training log of muay thai classes have no fear! If that statement worries you because you particularly like training logs and have been bored with most of my other writings then you are safe! I am moving all my training logs and musings to http://traininginsurat.blogspot.com/
Class began slowly with an instruction on how to stand and face your opponent, during which time it was discovered I was a Southpaw. After which we learned to step, move and stay in guard while we did it. Did a few dodging drills and movement practice for a bit.
The class seemed to be going well, with Master Somboon giving instruction first in English then Thai and with K observing and giving corrections during drills. It'll take a while before I get the hang of keeping my guard up and maintaining balance while moving, but that's what practice is all about anyways.
By this time the crippling Thai heat (which at times is the hardest part about the move) and the constant motion and the new strain of having to keep my guard up all the time made me a walking water monster, covering the floor and any poor sap next to me in sweat droplets. As we did stepping and moving practice I would draw lines and patterns on the mat with the constant trickle of water that followed me.
After a bit of practice Master Somboon stops us and gives us a brief speech on how the first class was usually only forward and backwards motion, but that he was abbreviating our training for some reason. We were now to learn the jab. This practice was a bit harder and as it was the first time I was ever to learn how to throw a proper punch (karate most definitely does not count) I was beyond excited. We learned to how lean and step in cover our chin at all times and how to return to guard. After this we practised in front of mirrors for a few minutes, sweat being flung from my arms with every swing.
After about ten minutes or so of that Master Somboon stopped us again and after describing how trainees used to be taught the jab for a whole day and didn't learn anything new till the next class, which is why were all very honoured when he believed we were ready for the jab-cross-jab (1,2,3) combination. Getting to punch with "the knockout" hand was even more fun than the jab and while we still hadn't actually hit anything but air yet, you could be the potential destructive force behind each swing. We practised the 1-2-3 combo for a while with movement with Master Somboon and K making corrections on our form and stance.
Then again, after a little while of that, Master Somboon stopped us again and told us how on the second day the students learned nothing but the 1-2-3 combo and had to usually wait for any kicks, but since we were doing so well he decided to move up the schedule again! I was pretty used to hearing this statement by now and wasn't surprised, but I was happy to learn my first kick in Muay Thai. It turned out to be the push kick, or teep, and this was the best part because after a little instruction and observation we put in front of the bags and got to finally let loose and feel some impacts. Seeing the massive bag swing in huge arcs after a good kick felt great and the impact was something I'd yearned for since the first day of kid's karate.
That pretty much ended up the class with us hitting the bags for a short while (my sweat was now flying everywhere) and we were given water and sat around chatting for a while, watching Master Somboon play fetch with his two huge dogs and a couple of coconuts.
Just in case anyone was wondering if my posts will become one big training log of muay thai classes have no fear! If that statement worries you because you particularly like training logs and have been bored with most of my other writings then you are safe! I am moving all my training logs and musings to http://traininginsurat.blogspot.com/
Monday, May 16, 2011
Muay Thai Day 1 Part 1i: A room full of 11 year old professionals
I've trained a few different places in a few different styles and met fighters of every level of skill, experience and dedication; I've also heard plenty of stories from those who've trained at more places and seen more, so I knew kind of what to expect walking into the Muay Thai Academy of Master Somboon in Surat. I knew the Thais started fighting at a young age, that it wasn't something seen as a recreational activity so everyone's a professional, and that they train as rough as they fight (which can be pretty brutal at times). However, knowing what to expect and then finally seeing it for the first time are two completely different animals.
I arrived at the school along with another teacher (M for now) from my school and her boyfriend (K), a trainer at the gym and local athletics school for boys. With their help I was able to communicate my interest, living and working situation (most importantly the schedule) with the master. He's a well known and respected former champion who splits his time running the school pro bono for local boys wanting to enter the professional ring and travelling the world (He's leaving for a month or two soon to run sessions across Europe).
Somboon is a serious man, who seems to take everything head on. His gym is also his home, his bathrooms and shower are the same as the trainees. When asked if he trained the boys for free out of a love of muay thai, he said something along the lines of, "Love muay thai? No. Not at all. They're just poor and need the training". He can appear and disappear without a sound and each time I looked and saw him I wondered how he got there (Thai ninja?). He spoke frankly of everything from the boys, muay thai in general (He gave me a stack of books to browse after which he said flatly, "These books are all old and no good."), the other farang, and even politics.
I was pretty worried because K and Master Somboon both told me about all the problems with other farang training at the school in the past: they had often abused the Thai concept of hospitality to take advantage of the gyms equipment, arriving at odd hours, bringing friends to use the equipment, distracting the more serious Thai students and leaving the place a mess. Due to this history Somboon was very likely to say "No" and that would be it for my chances of training Muay Thai at all in Surat (and in Thailand for at least a year). After the initial meeting Master Somboon had to begin his regular class and said he'd finish with me afterwards.
So between meeting him and my actual processing into the school M and I watched K and the other trainer teach a class. These kids (they were all between the ages of 11 and 15) were incredible. I'd never seen children work so intensely on other than video games. All were built like little Bruce Lee's and each time one his a mitt or bag the "SNAP" reverberated through the place. They moved with such casual speed and power it was difficult to comprehend how anyone could attain such skill until we were informed how most had at least a few fights already and some as many as 20 or more.
I cannot say enough about the difference between these kids and the kids (of the same age or older) who I trained in karate back when I was a teenager. While both are supposed to be learning the martial arts the Thai's are truly little warriors in every sense of the word. They have the strength, speed, attitude and toughness of a fighter that makes the soft and unchallenged karate kids look like spoiled kids in a dance class instead of the martial arts. It's not about ranks and belts and cool looking moves that are like the Power Rangers, but about learning and perfecting the moves they need to win in the ring and succeed in the harsh world of professional combat sports.
After Master Somboon got back from training and his errands and on hearing about my intentions and interest and learning that I am, in fact, half Thai (something that has frequently opened otherwise closed doors in Thailand) he not only graciously allowed me to stay and train, but to start later that day (and at local rates as opposed to the killer foreign rates, which I would have not been able to afford) then took all three of us out to lunch. At lunch he ordered for everyone first, spoke little (when he did it was to the derision of the various parties in the upcoming elections or inquiring a little about me and K). I felt pretty honoured though I had no idea what he was talking about usually (the food was fantastic).
Next Post: My first class, and return of the sweat monster!
I arrived at the school along with another teacher (M for now) from my school and her boyfriend (K), a trainer at the gym and local athletics school for boys. With their help I was able to communicate my interest, living and working situation (most importantly the schedule) with the master. He's a well known and respected former champion who splits his time running the school pro bono for local boys wanting to enter the professional ring and travelling the world (He's leaving for a month or two soon to run sessions across Europe).
Somboon is a serious man, who seems to take everything head on. His gym is also his home, his bathrooms and shower are the same as the trainees. When asked if he trained the boys for free out of a love of muay thai, he said something along the lines of, "Love muay thai? No. Not at all. They're just poor and need the training". He can appear and disappear without a sound and each time I looked and saw him I wondered how he got there (Thai ninja?). He spoke frankly of everything from the boys, muay thai in general (He gave me a stack of books to browse after which he said flatly, "These books are all old and no good."), the other farang, and even politics.
I was pretty worried because K and Master Somboon both told me about all the problems with other farang training at the school in the past: they had often abused the Thai concept of hospitality to take advantage of the gyms equipment, arriving at odd hours, bringing friends to use the equipment, distracting the more serious Thai students and leaving the place a mess. Due to this history Somboon was very likely to say "No" and that would be it for my chances of training Muay Thai at all in Surat (and in Thailand for at least a year). After the initial meeting Master Somboon had to begin his regular class and said he'd finish with me afterwards.
So between meeting him and my actual processing into the school M and I watched K and the other trainer teach a class. These kids (they were all between the ages of 11 and 15) were incredible. I'd never seen children work so intensely on other than video games. All were built like little Bruce Lee's and each time one his a mitt or bag the "SNAP" reverberated through the place. They moved with such casual speed and power it was difficult to comprehend how anyone could attain such skill until we were informed how most had at least a few fights already and some as many as 20 or more.
I cannot say enough about the difference between these kids and the kids (of the same age or older) who I trained in karate back when I was a teenager. While both are supposed to be learning the martial arts the Thai's are truly little warriors in every sense of the word. They have the strength, speed, attitude and toughness of a fighter that makes the soft and unchallenged karate kids look like spoiled kids in a dance class instead of the martial arts. It's not about ranks and belts and cool looking moves that are like the Power Rangers, but about learning and perfecting the moves they need to win in the ring and succeed in the harsh world of professional combat sports.
After Master Somboon got back from training and his errands and on hearing about my intentions and interest and learning that I am, in fact, half Thai (something that has frequently opened otherwise closed doors in Thailand) he not only graciously allowed me to stay and train, but to start later that day (and at local rates as opposed to the killer foreign rates, which I would have not been able to afford) then took all three of us out to lunch. At lunch he ordered for everyone first, spoke little (when he did it was to the derision of the various parties in the upcoming elections or inquiring a little about me and K). I felt pretty honoured though I had no idea what he was talking about usually (the food was fantastic).
Next Post: My first class, and return of the sweat monster!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
First Working Week
I've talked about wanting to come to Thailand for family, culture, food and many other things but I have yet to truly face what got me here and why I'm really in Suratthani (a city I did not know existed in a province I never heard of 6 months ago): A job. I am a certified English as Second/Foreign Language teacher and after this past Monday I now truly am one (if not a bit inexperienced and overwhelmed).
The job I have in Surat is split between two schools; while officially an employee of and paid by an after-school language institute, I am to teach both there and at a private elementary school (Elementary kids in the morning and the Institute ones in the evening). The Institute opened Monday, and the Elementary School starts classes this coming Thursday, which I am not looking forward to getting started.
As for my classes (And younger class of 15 kids followed by a smaller, more advanced group with 7). The younger class, ages 9 - 11, is a tornado of screaming, running kids who have a hard time focusing on anything for more than 30 seconds at a time and who have now demanded the game "7up" (a children's game from back in the U.S.A.) with a chant every day. An absolute handful who never listen to me. The first day had me wanting to quick and go back home with my tail between my legs, but I'm glad I didn't because they seem to slowly be accepting me as a "real" teacher and they're all pretty damn cute.
One student in particular (who goes by the name of "Big") is a complete menace and has gone trough, over the course of 5 days from absolute hyper screaming machine, to catatonic zombie who literally stared at the walls and was completely unresponsive the entire class, to maniac again who was chucking my flashcards out the door when my back was turned. I truly think he's either bipolar or has ADHD. Gotta say, though, if he wasn't my student I'd love him simply because of his crazy antics (he's clever enough to make each one make me want to pee myself laughing).
My older class is the reason why I stayed. After the hectic first day and near heart attack of the younger kids' class I needed a break... and got a double shot of Tums-sized relief pills. Instead of charging past me up the stairs scream they are orderly, and while they like to talk in class (in Thai, which is a no-no) they listen to every word I say, work hard, stay focused and still have room to loosen up and goof around so I know they're still kids and not English-absorbing drones at the end of the day (that and they called me handsome ^_^). All seven are true joys to teach and give me hope for a future in the teaching world for me (I'll get the hang of the kids sooner or later... I hope).
More specific details on the classes, their students and the structure of each class are sure to follow as soon as I: start teaching all my classes, learn how to make a truly effective lesson plan and carry it out, and learn all my students' names... yeah right.
Next post: My First Muay Thai Class! (w00t!)
The job I have in Surat is split between two schools; while officially an employee of and paid by an after-school language institute, I am to teach both there and at a private elementary school (Elementary kids in the morning and the Institute ones in the evening). The Institute opened Monday, and the Elementary School starts classes this coming Thursday, which I am not looking forward to getting started.
As for my classes (And younger class of 15 kids followed by a smaller, more advanced group with 7). The younger class, ages 9 - 11, is a tornado of screaming, running kids who have a hard time focusing on anything for more than 30 seconds at a time and who have now demanded the game "7up" (a children's game from back in the U.S.A.) with a chant every day. An absolute handful who never listen to me. The first day had me wanting to quick and go back home with my tail between my legs, but I'm glad I didn't because they seem to slowly be accepting me as a "real" teacher and they're all pretty damn cute.
One student in particular (who goes by the name of "Big") is a complete menace and has gone trough, over the course of 5 days from absolute hyper screaming machine, to catatonic zombie who literally stared at the walls and was completely unresponsive the entire class, to maniac again who was chucking my flashcards out the door when my back was turned. I truly think he's either bipolar or has ADHD. Gotta say, though, if he wasn't my student I'd love him simply because of his crazy antics (he's clever enough to make each one make me want to pee myself laughing).
My older class is the reason why I stayed. After the hectic first day and near heart attack of the younger kids' class I needed a break... and got a double shot of Tums-sized relief pills. Instead of charging past me up the stairs scream they are orderly, and while they like to talk in class (in Thai, which is a no-no) they listen to every word I say, work hard, stay focused and still have room to loosen up and goof around so I know they're still kids and not English-absorbing drones at the end of the day (that and they called me handsome ^_^). All seven are true joys to teach and give me hope for a future in the teaching world for me (I'll get the hang of the kids sooner or later... I hope).
More specific details on the classes, their students and the structure of each class are sure to follow as soon as I: start teaching all my classes, learn how to make a truly effective lesson plan and carry it out, and learn all my students' names... yeah right.
Next post: My First Muay Thai Class! (w00t!)
Saturday, May 7, 2011
The Beach
Having arrived in Surat with a few days to spare before training got under way the group (those of us who'd made it to Thailand so far) decided to pack up once again and take an hour bus to Khonom beach for a couple of days.
After arriving and working out our housing arrangements we found the beach completely deserted, the water clear blue and the sand a powdery white that stretched at such a gently slope one was 30 or 40 meters out at least before the water was past chest height and by the time you had to swim to stay afloat the entire beach from end to end (framed by magnificent green mountains) was almost entirely in your field of vision. As we lounged in the sand, on the benches and hammocks and drank beers in the pool we all got to know each other and bond as a group.
Later Annie, Jackie and I went on a stroll to the end of the beach where we had spotted a pier earlier and were told that pink dolphins (yes, pink dolphins) could be spotted off of it. Before we got to the end of the pier (which looked much more industrial and was guarded on closer inspection) we happened upon by a group of kids chilling and playing guitar who brought us over with shouts of "Happy!" and "One Love!". The teens, Nat, Muang (Mango), Monkey, Gay, and Mai were giggly and cheerful and after some broken conversation invited us back that night to what was apparently their camp-site for dinner. On the way back we would end up meeting Rosie and Nath, who live on a house by the beach, as I vainly tried to get a coconut (scarily reminiscent of my last trip when I was 10). As we sat there, drinking coco milk and chatting with Rosie we caught sight of the rest of the group who'd followed us out and waved them down and shared more coconuts and chatted till we made our way back to Nat's camp.
At his camp we met the mother and father of two of the kids (not all related) where they had a huge bonfire going and a feast of grilled fish, shrimp, a bunch of other foods and sticky rice which we all shared with a bottle of rice whiskey that we brought for them. We ate and drank late into the night, chatting, playing music and saw a literal storm of falling stars that seemed to cap the night with their brilliance and unexpected arrival. When we left, the group escorted us back to our resort with flashlights so we could see (and in doing so saved us from potentially stepping on a squid, a jelleyfish and a live sea-snake).
The next morning we all wandered around sleepy and a little hungover (I was sunburnt to a crisp) and after a last dip in the ocean made our way back to the city.
After arriving and working out our housing arrangements we found the beach completely deserted, the water clear blue and the sand a powdery white that stretched at such a gently slope one was 30 or 40 meters out at least before the water was past chest height and by the time you had to swim to stay afloat the entire beach from end to end (framed by magnificent green mountains) was almost entirely in your field of vision. As we lounged in the sand, on the benches and hammocks and drank beers in the pool we all got to know each other and bond as a group.
Later Annie, Jackie and I went on a stroll to the end of the beach where we had spotted a pier earlier and were told that pink dolphins (yes, pink dolphins) could be spotted off of it. Before we got to the end of the pier (which looked much more industrial and was guarded on closer inspection) we happened upon by a group of kids chilling and playing guitar who brought us over with shouts of "Happy!" and "One Love!". The teens, Nat, Muang (Mango), Monkey, Gay, and Mai were giggly and cheerful and after some broken conversation invited us back that night to what was apparently their camp-site for dinner. On the way back we would end up meeting Rosie and Nath, who live on a house by the beach, as I vainly tried to get a coconut (scarily reminiscent of my last trip when I was 10). As we sat there, drinking coco milk and chatting with Rosie we caught sight of the rest of the group who'd followed us out and waved them down and shared more coconuts and chatted till we made our way back to Nat's camp.
At his camp we met the mother and father of two of the kids (not all related) where they had a huge bonfire going and a feast of grilled fish, shrimp, a bunch of other foods and sticky rice which we all shared with a bottle of rice whiskey that we brought for them. We ate and drank late into the night, chatting, playing music and saw a literal storm of falling stars that seemed to cap the night with their brilliance and unexpected arrival. When we left, the group escorted us back to our resort with flashlights so we could see (and in doing so saved us from potentially stepping on a squid, a jelleyfish and a live sea-snake).
The next morning we all wandered around sleepy and a little hungover (I was sunburnt to a crisp) and after a last dip in the ocean made our way back to the city.
Landing in Surat and my new home
So after about a week of bouncing around Bangkok, seeing long lost relatives, taking part in a Thai Easter and coming to grips that "loose stools" will now be a norm it was time for me to catch my flight to Suratthani. After dinner my little cousins (two brothers) came into my room and with the most English I'd heard them use to date showed my pictures of, and described their recent trip to China, it was really touching and a great way to say goodbye.
However, that night I didn't sleep at all, nerves and a bad case of diarrhea dominating my thoughts and bowels (I gorged myself on some snack we got while visiting a group of nuns). Would I get along with the other teachers? What would the town be like? And the school? There were so many unknowns and the only pictures of the town and other teachers I got were of either flooding or a fabled Full Moon Party (held every full moon) that seems to make Woodstock look tame in comparison.
The next morning one of my cousins (from Chiang Mai) drove me to the airport at around 05:00 where after some complications with my bags we sat down for breakfast (I, wasn't feeling so great so I just had a coffee). Worried thoughts still prevalent, I was unable to focus and we quickly made way to the terminal and said goodbye. When I made it to the terminal all my fears melted at Annie and Jill, the two teachers I was supposed to meet in Bangkok, waved me over all excited smiles. As we sat waiting for the plane we talked about where we came from, what we did before and what our experiences the past week in Thailand have been.
The plane flight itself was over before I knew it, and we exited to the small but really nice Suratthani airport where after collecting out bags we were immediately met by Darren, the academic director, and Jena another teacher who was coming from Vietnam and already been travelling for 5 years. We all piled into a small van and brought to our new homes to deposit our belongings and get a look around. The houses being older versions of what my family has in Bangkok, with two or three levels, multiple balconies and a front courtyard with a gate (Mine has a palm tree!). Our beds are the largest I've ever slept in (king size, baby) and minus a slight roach problem, very comfortable (did I mention I have a pool table, too?). Very impressed now with my new accommodations we were brought on a quick tour of the town (which is very small) and then went and got some key supplies we'd need at the local Lotus (kind of like a Walmart). Darren seemed very friendly and laid back and I was impressed by Jena's wealth of knowledge from her many years teaching and travelling (those two being my real first pro-expatriots).
After the girls were dropped back off at their home Darren and I went to the pier where we talked a bit about travelling, Thailand, teaching and a few things until we went and picked up three more new teachers Mark (one of my roomates) Kelly and Jackie. They all seemed nice but exhausted from their travels and we were dropped off until dinner which we all got at the pier that night.
However, that night I didn't sleep at all, nerves and a bad case of diarrhea dominating my thoughts and bowels (I gorged myself on some snack we got while visiting a group of nuns). Would I get along with the other teachers? What would the town be like? And the school? There were so many unknowns and the only pictures of the town and other teachers I got were of either flooding or a fabled Full Moon Party (held every full moon) that seems to make Woodstock look tame in comparison.
The next morning one of my cousins (from Chiang Mai) drove me to the airport at around 05:00 where after some complications with my bags we sat down for breakfast (I, wasn't feeling so great so I just had a coffee). Worried thoughts still prevalent, I was unable to focus and we quickly made way to the terminal and said goodbye. When I made it to the terminal all my fears melted at Annie and Jill, the two teachers I was supposed to meet in Bangkok, waved me over all excited smiles. As we sat waiting for the plane we talked about where we came from, what we did before and what our experiences the past week in Thailand have been.
The plane flight itself was over before I knew it, and we exited to the small but really nice Suratthani airport where after collecting out bags we were immediately met by Darren, the academic director, and Jena another teacher who was coming from Vietnam and already been travelling for 5 years. We all piled into a small van and brought to our new homes to deposit our belongings and get a look around. The houses being older versions of what my family has in Bangkok, with two or three levels, multiple balconies and a front courtyard with a gate (Mine has a palm tree!). Our beds are the largest I've ever slept in (king size, baby) and minus a slight roach problem, very comfortable (did I mention I have a pool table, too?). Very impressed now with my new accommodations we were brought on a quick tour of the town (which is very small) and then went and got some key supplies we'd need at the local Lotus (kind of like a Walmart). Darren seemed very friendly and laid back and I was impressed by Jena's wealth of knowledge from her many years teaching and travelling (those two being my real first pro-expatriots).
After the girls were dropped back off at their home Darren and I went to the pier where we talked a bit about travelling, Thailand, teaching and a few things until we went and picked up three more new teachers Mark (one of my roomates) Kelly and Jackie. They all seemed nice but exhausted from their travels and we were dropped off until dinner which we all got at the pier that night.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Bangkok
A lot of people have been to and wrote about Bangkok already so I won't really put too much into this since it's not even where I'm staying but suffice it to say it's a big city with a crazy story. I had a great time there, but mostly thanks to my awesome family who knew exactly where to take me for a good time, and bypassed all (or at least most) of the tourist traps, price gouged markets and general sleaze (don't get me wrong, we still saw enough human trafficking to fill me with plenty of rage).
When entering the Grand Royal Palace I was snuck in with my family and last name through the Thai Entrance (which was a few hundred baht less) which was more of a blast than most of the palace itself. I saw the Chao Praya on a river bus that was a few thousand less than the tourist trip down that took us somewhere useful (instead of a hotel). After that it's a bit of a blur as my cousin took his sons, a maid's daughter and I on a dizzying tour of what must have been every single major (and possibly minor) mall in Bangkok and covered at least 3k by foot before we all finally collapsed back in his taxi completely exhausted.
For the next few days I was given a little easier treatment: getting small trips to awesome open-air markets that would make Anthony Bourdain weep (accompanied by my cousins who grew up with the vendors and were local shop owners themselves), road trips to the hometown of one of their fiance's, an art museum (one of the better ones I've been to), ancient ruins of Ayatollah, a floating market, and plenty of great, great food.
I never made it to the real slums, or the crazy Kao San Road and skipped the night life altogether. I stayed in a beautiful room with a nice view and home made breakfast every morning so my experiences feel leagues apart from those others who've been there, but I'm honestly glad for it and while it's definitely not my favourite city (I don't even like it, really), I can see why others love it and it's as famous as it is.
When entering the Grand Royal Palace I was snuck in with my family and last name through the Thai Entrance (which was a few hundred baht less) which was more of a blast than most of the palace itself. I saw the Chao Praya on a river bus that was a few thousand less than the tourist trip down that took us somewhere useful (instead of a hotel). After that it's a bit of a blur as my cousin took his sons, a maid's daughter and I on a dizzying tour of what must have been every single major (and possibly minor) mall in Bangkok and covered at least 3k by foot before we all finally collapsed back in his taxi completely exhausted.
For the next few days I was given a little easier treatment: getting small trips to awesome open-air markets that would make Anthony Bourdain weep (accompanied by my cousins who grew up with the vendors and were local shop owners themselves), road trips to the hometown of one of their fiance's, an art museum (one of the better ones I've been to), ancient ruins of Ayatollah, a floating market, and plenty of great, great food.
I never made it to the real slums, or the crazy Kao San Road and skipped the night life altogether. I stayed in a beautiful room with a nice view and home made breakfast every morning so my experiences feel leagues apart from those others who've been there, but I'm honestly glad for it and while it's definitely not my favourite city (I don't even like it, really), I can see why others love it and it's as famous as it is.
Easter
I'm not very religious, usually only allowing my mom's big concert nights or dad's fear for my immortal soul to get me anywhere near a church so it was a little bit surprising that only a few hours after touching down in Bangkok I found myself in my "Sunday best" listening to mass in a language I could not comprehend at all. In the next three days I would experience a further three masses, a stations of the cross and a rosary prayer service.
My family in Thailand is part of the very close-knit and strong Thai-Catholic Community and while I was told it would be "okay" for me to bow out of services (I had plenty of ready excuses, from language to jet lag) that first night was the only time I left the actual service (I nearly passed out in my pew). While the readings and sermons went by without a hint of understanding (I usually didn't know where one stopped and the other started), the prayers unfollowable and the ceremonies all-too familiar the music was excellent, unique and uplifting and any time I could spend with my family, I feel, was time well spent.
On Easter Day itself I was actually brought by my cousin and his fiance to her hometown diocese where a sort of shrine and museum to a famous Thai martyr is entombed. The church and shrine were actually beautiful and the story of the martyr Philip Siphong Onphitak was told with such passion and true belief that even someone who has been so far removed from the church was impressed and moved. I also got to meet my cousin's fiance's aunt who is a chatty and hilarious woman who I completely adore and hope to meet again soon and all in all it was a great time (with added nun-snack pickup on the way back!).
Later, back in Bangkok after another mass that stunned me with its stages of the cross ceremony and music (here's a link to the church's music page: http://www.catholic.or.th/service/song/) and had one of the best after parties where I got to chat with an American-Thai and his family with having home cooked noodles and coffee. At this last part I really got the feel of the community and had a lot of fun just mingling and looking lost in the crowd.
I have to say, while none of this served to "bring be back into the fold" or anything like that, I was surprised how easy it was to both slip back on the ceremonial shoes (I never understood the priests when they were speaking English anyway) and I did get to call home and tell them how religious I'd been for the week (which I'm sure they got a kick out of).
My family in Thailand is part of the very close-knit and strong Thai-Catholic Community and while I was told it would be "okay" for me to bow out of services (I had plenty of ready excuses, from language to jet lag) that first night was the only time I left the actual service (I nearly passed out in my pew). While the readings and sermons went by without a hint of understanding (I usually didn't know where one stopped and the other started), the prayers unfollowable and the ceremonies all-too familiar the music was excellent, unique and uplifting and any time I could spend with my family, I feel, was time well spent.
On Easter Day itself I was actually brought by my cousin and his fiance to her hometown diocese where a sort of shrine and museum to a famous Thai martyr is entombed. The church and shrine were actually beautiful and the story of the martyr Philip Siphong Onphitak was told with such passion and true belief that even someone who has been so far removed from the church was impressed and moved. I also got to meet my cousin's fiance's aunt who is a chatty and hilarious woman who I completely adore and hope to meet again soon and all in all it was a great time (with added nun-snack pickup on the way back!).
Later, back in Bangkok after another mass that stunned me with its stages of the cross ceremony and music (here's a link to the church's music page: http://www.catholic.or.th/service/song/) and had one of the best after parties where I got to chat with an American-Thai and his family with having home cooked noodles and coffee. At this last part I really got the feel of the community and had a lot of fun just mingling and looking lost in the crowd.
I have to say, while none of this served to "bring be back into the fold" or anything like that, I was surprised how easy it was to both slip back on the ceremonial shoes (I never understood the priests when they were speaking English anyway) and I did get to call home and tell them how religious I'd been for the week (which I'm sure they got a kick out of).
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