I still don't exactly know where we were. It was only supposed to be a 10km, 20min drive down the road; instead it became a huge hour plus journey into what seemed like a carnival/festival in the middle of absolute nowhere. At times Karim's English friend and I felt we were being duped by our friend and were being brought to an Al-Qaeda-esque execution in a jungle cave as we followed the other pickup filled with little Thai fighters around dark, country/jungle backroads with so many U-turns you'd think we were being tailed or something.
This meant that in typical Thai style we stroll into the "stadium" (a roof with a ring under it surrounded by a wall of corrugated tin) late to one of the boys' first fights (the reason we're there). No one seems to care, least of all Karim, the other trainer and the boy, and fight prep begins.
Now let me just say that this if my first live muay thai fight, and first live professional fight. I've seen some amateur kickboxing in NY but this is nothing like that. The ring (after it started raining, it became the only dry structure in the area) is surrounded by people standing in the mud or on chairs for a better view. Everyone is shouting at everything and cash starts to fly after the first round (when the real betting begins).
The fighters prep on mats they bring with them and must push through the crowd to get to their corner. It's all chaos and noise... that and all but one fight was between 8-14 year olds. And not just the pansy little kids fights you get so many PTA moms up in arms about in the States where they have big foam shinpads and headgear on and the gloves are the same size as their torso. No, these are professionals fighting for blood and money; they enter with their mongkan (ceremonial headband that is removed before the fight) 10-14 oz gloves and shorts. That's it.
The fights begin with a Wai Kru or dance to show respect to their trainer and to apologize to the audience for the violence they're about to see (yeah, that second one's kinda funny) and the entire fight is set to traditional Thai music that varies from the kru-dance, and each round (speeds up each round or something, I couldn't really tell). When they're good and they have a long wai kru it's an wonderful show in itself and adds tradition and elegance to a real ass-beating.
They go full force, kicks, punches, elbows and knees. No mercy, no stopping till the bell rings or the ref pulls you away. A 10ish year old kid was knocked out with a beautiful kick to the face and the crowd goes wild. Not a single one cried. Actually, it was their stony expressions left me a little shaken. Win or loose, like Karim, their faces never changed. You can't tell if the kick that just knocked them back across the ring hurt them at all, and when our fighter knocked the other flat with an amazing punch-kick combo (he fell like a board, straight back) I thought he was even a little depressed his face moved so little (didn't even crack a smile).
Still, even with all the kiddie-gore (almost no blood) at the end of each fight, no matter what the outcome the two kids hug (and if their faces have that expression, smile) and then meet and talk to the other's trainers who give them water and a pat on the head for a job well done. No animosity, these are true professionals.
The entire night (aside from getting lost twice, we got turned around on the way back too) was grand and a real eye opener into not only the world of professional fighters, but the Thai version of that world where you begin young, fight often and win or loose keep your composure and sincerely congratulate the other side (not that stupid "Who do we appreciate" shit from Little League Baseball).
Oh, and the final outcome of the night was one win one loss (we had two fighters there) and the loss was totally a result of the gambling and not the actual fight results (our kid smoked the other dude) and I ended up loosing 100 baht (I was lucky I couldn't find an ATM on the way or it would've ended up being more). Either way it's an experience I hope to repeat many times during my time here.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Wai Kru Day
Today was fun. I woke up early, skipped my run and went to work a full hour and a half before I really needed to. Now, this must be sarcasm, you're thinking, but it's not. It was amazing. Tremendous. Totally hilarious.
Why?
Wai Kru Day.
What is that? It when all the students from all the classes line up and give highly arranged and decorated flower arrangement pieces to all their teachers. This, of course, is after they crawl on their knees to you (we had chairs) and bow face-to-ground-total-kowtow style. And even before that, they sang to us, chanted about being better students and how they appreciate us and all the kids did a kowtow to apologize for being bad students in the past (I want to stand up and cheer).
I was given so many flowers, incense and candles that I had to keep them on my lap, and then give them to someone with a bucket (this repeated itself three times). Sometimes we "blessed" our students on the head as the kowtowed telling them to "lead good lives" and "be a doctor" (I said "Have fun").
Totally made this entire month of Teaching Hell worth it.
Why?
Wai Kru Day.
What is that? It when all the students from all the classes line up and give highly arranged and decorated flower arrangement pieces to all their teachers. This, of course, is after they crawl on their knees to you (we had chairs) and bow face-to-ground-total-kowtow style. And even before that, they sang to us, chanted about being better students and how they appreciate us and all the kids did a kowtow to apologize for being bad students in the past (I want to stand up and cheer).
I was given so many flowers, incense and candles that I had to keep them on my lap, and then give them to someone with a bucket (this repeated itself three times). Sometimes we "blessed" our students on the head as the kowtowed telling them to "lead good lives" and "be a doctor" (I said "Have fun").
Totally made this entire month of Teaching Hell worth it.
Some quick notes
I've been pretty busy lately, a lot's been going down at work. We lost our Academic Manager so two of us (teachers) were made "Head Teachers" or something like that which meant many minor shifts in how things were done. I had my observation from my boss last week and while it was stressful it went well and I am now officially (non-probationary) a teacher at my schools, which is nice (and the pay gets a nice little raise from here on out).
I had to do some visa work, which meant photocopying my passport and getting a checkup... I don't have syphilis, which happens to be the only disease my work checkup checks. Aside from that I lost 10 kilos (22ish pounds) since coming to Thailand and gone down a belt size which is sweet (I had to buy a belt for my work pants tho'). I've felt great about that and added to my muay thai (which is now on the weekend) a morning run which I've done for the past couple weeks.
Finally, I got a new update for my Linux. If this interests you then read on, if not then you can stop here.
Natty Narwhal
The new Unity interface is excellent and I think the best one I've used on my netbook before. It's less clumsy and faster than the older Unity (I'd been using the regular Ubuntu Desktop) and was a real surprise. The full-screened windows are the best way to take up the space and the toolbar is less annoying than Snow Leopard's (I haven't seen Lion yet); the "Hidden" feature seems easier to manager, especially as a sidebar. I did have to allow 3rd party updates (not naturally on) or it was a bit glitchy, but Natty has so far been the smoothest upgrade I've had from Ubuntu. Nice job, guys ^_^
I had to do some visa work, which meant photocopying my passport and getting a checkup... I don't have syphilis, which happens to be the only disease my work checkup checks. Aside from that I lost 10 kilos (22ish pounds) since coming to Thailand and gone down a belt size which is sweet (I had to buy a belt for my work pants tho'). I've felt great about that and added to my muay thai (which is now on the weekend) a morning run which I've done for the past couple weeks.
Finally, I got a new update for my Linux. If this interests you then read on, if not then you can stop here.
Natty Narwhal
The new Unity interface is excellent and I think the best one I've used on my netbook before. It's less clumsy and faster than the older Unity (I'd been using the regular Ubuntu Desktop) and was a real surprise. The full-screened windows are the best way to take up the space and the toolbar is less annoying than Snow Leopard's (I haven't seen Lion yet); the "Hidden" feature seems easier to manager, especially as a sidebar. I did have to allow 3rd party updates (not naturally on) or it was a bit glitchy, but Natty has so far been the smoothest upgrade I've had from Ubuntu. Nice job, guys ^_^
Saturday, May 28, 2011
A needed break: Rajaprappa Dam
Again, I find I'm almost a week behind on my posts (as this all happened last weekend). Meh, I guess it's all the same to everyone anyways right? (If you're reading this post 5 years from now, and find that the time-delay of one week really screwed with your reading experience then... you're messed up, pal).
This/That/Whatever week has been tough, and combined with the past few I needed some time away (as far away as possible while still being in Thailand) and while we didn't have time to make it to one of the islands (I STILL haven't been yet, and that bugs me) we did get to go to Rajaprapa to see the local lake made when the dam was set up. Now, at first glance that doesn't seem to interesting, I mean sure a pristine lake of clear blue water is nice but I could find that thing in the US right? WRONG! For these reasons I will list........now:
1) It's surrounded by gigantic Asian Mountains, I mean those kinda mountains you see in the final scenes of Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon; jutting straight up and covered in jungle growth and 90degree angles to the ground
2) You get around on a motorized bamboo raft, which at first doesn't sound special but you haven't tried it yet.
3) Caves, really cool ones.
and if that hasn't impressed (honestly, as I write it sounds a little lame to even myself) then here's the kicker:
4) You stay, eat and drink on a bar/bungalo that is floating off on the middle of the lake. Nearly everything but the toilet (which you take a ramp to a steep hill which you climb to get to) is on a raft of some kind. The house, the bar, the dock, the whatever else you can think of is floating and lashed/nailed to something floating next to it.
Yeah, it was sweet. We got there after about an hour long boat ride around those crazy mountains (pics by someone else somewhere on FB if you really gotta see) and immediately after arriving about three people dump their things at the dock/bar and just fall over the edge into the water. This started hours of swimming, kayaking and overall lounging in, on and around the water and all things that float in what can easily be described as one of the most relaxing lakes I've ever found. "I'm cold now" find the next floating thing, be it bungalo, bar, kayak or person and get on it/them. "I'm hot now" fall off back into the water. I could really get used to that.
There were partially submerged trees we climbed and jumped off of, there was many, many kayak flippings (and one sinking, leaving the guy out in the middle of the river holding on to a tree for dear life as one of us went out to save his sorry ass), great food, $1-2 beers (pretty damn expensive here, but not bad if you're reading in the US) and a few monkey sightings which took place when a bunch of us took off on another raft to go take a hike through the jungle and look at some of the caves led by a kid with a desk-lamp attached to a car-battery in a backpack.
Towards the end of the day we were all very, very relaxed and rested; dozing on the side of whatever we were floating on now (mostly the bungalos) or lazily bobbing in the nearby water. After the boatride back we all napped on the busride back to Surat (about an hour), ate and felt like the whole week's been worth it.
This/That/Whatever week has been tough, and combined with the past few I needed some time away (as far away as possible while still being in Thailand) and while we didn't have time to make it to one of the islands (I STILL haven't been yet, and that bugs me) we did get to go to Rajaprapa to see the local lake made when the dam was set up. Now, at first glance that doesn't seem to interesting, I mean sure a pristine lake of clear blue water is nice but I could find that thing in the US right? WRONG! For these reasons I will list........now:
1) It's surrounded by gigantic Asian Mountains, I mean those kinda mountains you see in the final scenes of Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon; jutting straight up and covered in jungle growth and 90degree angles to the ground
2) You get around on a motorized bamboo raft, which at first doesn't sound special but you haven't tried it yet.
3) Caves, really cool ones.
and if that hasn't impressed (honestly, as I write it sounds a little lame to even myself) then here's the kicker:
4) You stay, eat and drink on a bar/bungalo that is floating off on the middle of the lake. Nearly everything but the toilet (which you take a ramp to a steep hill which you climb to get to) is on a raft of some kind. The house, the bar, the dock, the whatever else you can think of is floating and lashed/nailed to something floating next to it.
Yeah, it was sweet. We got there after about an hour long boat ride around those crazy mountains (pics by someone else somewhere on FB if you really gotta see) and immediately after arriving about three people dump their things at the dock/bar and just fall over the edge into the water. This started hours of swimming, kayaking and overall lounging in, on and around the water and all things that float in what can easily be described as one of the most relaxing lakes I've ever found. "I'm cold now" find the next floating thing, be it bungalo, bar, kayak or person and get on it/them. "I'm hot now" fall off back into the water. I could really get used to that.
There were partially submerged trees we climbed and jumped off of, there was many, many kayak flippings (and one sinking, leaving the guy out in the middle of the river holding on to a tree for dear life as one of us went out to save his sorry ass), great food, $1-2 beers (pretty damn expensive here, but not bad if you're reading in the US) and a few monkey sightings which took place when a bunch of us took off on another raft to go take a hike through the jungle and look at some of the caves led by a kid with a desk-lamp attached to a car-battery in a backpack.
Towards the end of the day we were all very, very relaxed and rested; dozing on the side of whatever we were floating on now (mostly the bungalos) or lazily bobbing in the nearby water. After the boatride back we all napped on the busride back to Surat (about an hour), ate and felt like the whole week's been worth it.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
The Food: Better than you thought (and you thought it was the best this side of Paris)
Okay, so let me start by saying two things:
1) Yes, of course I had diarrhoea. Massive, soul shattering shits that felt like I was loosing my spine and lasted days. If that's too graphic, that's too bad because you're reading what my anus and I experienced.
2)I only had pad/phad thai once; it was "meh"
Now that those two are out of the way: There's a lot of food in Thailand. More than in America, and that includes the adopted foreign dishes like pizza, spaghetti, the taco, etc. The dishes come by the hundreds and variations by the street corner as everyone makes it their own way (chain restaurants only found in the big malls). I've had pretty much everything from kao phad gai (rice with chicken, and main staple of quite a few expats here as it's easy to say, not spicey and easy on the stomach), to random curries to tom yum a wicked spicey and totally native soup of which only about 20% of the actual ingredients in the soup (aside from the broth) are actually edible.
The portions here are what is best described as "stomach size"; hard to get used to at first but becomes a blessing as the "stuffing yourself silly" and feeling like crap after going to a restaurant are now totally nonexistant. It should also be said that I have not made any food since arrival (not even a pot of hot water) since meals are (even by local standards) ridiculously cheap: $30 baht ($1) per meal is the norm and on my street there is a place about every 30 feet selling something different. Oh, yeah, and it's as fresh as your wildest dreams can think of, especially the seafood (which is Surat's claim to fame along with coconuts and rambutan <-- lookit up).
Now, eating out for breakfast lunch and dinner and with all this good food (that I eat whenever the Hell I feel like and as much as I want) you'd think "But Terry, what about your already dangerously high weight/cholesterol/blood pressure?". That's the best part! I can eat literally as much as I want and I am loosing pounds. This is in part due to: the heat, it's frakking hot here and I sweat in air-conditioned rooms; the previously mentioned portion sizes; and all the food here is just a bit healthier than a Five Guy's Burger with Spicey Fries and Shake ;)
Well, I bet you were hoping for more of a step-by-step replay of my favourite meals a la Food Channel with descriptions to make your mouth water and wish you were here. Ha! I don't need to do that to know you already want to be here so tough cookies (oh, the cookies here are exotic and amazing). 'Sides, I ain't no Bourdain and if you want that kinda stuff a picture (or video) is worth a thousand words so instead of reading my prose, go watch the Travel Channel a bit ;)
Next Post: More work, and a trip to monkey-lake-dam-place!
1) Yes, of course I had diarrhoea. Massive, soul shattering shits that felt like I was loosing my spine and lasted days. If that's too graphic, that's too bad because you're reading what my anus and I experienced.
2)I only had pad/phad thai once; it was "meh"
Now that those two are out of the way: There's a lot of food in Thailand. More than in America, and that includes the adopted foreign dishes like pizza, spaghetti, the taco, etc. The dishes come by the hundreds and variations by the street corner as everyone makes it their own way (chain restaurants only found in the big malls). I've had pretty much everything from kao phad gai (rice with chicken, and main staple of quite a few expats here as it's easy to say, not spicey and easy on the stomach), to random curries to tom yum a wicked spicey and totally native soup of which only about 20% of the actual ingredients in the soup (aside from the broth) are actually edible.
The portions here are what is best described as "stomach size"; hard to get used to at first but becomes a blessing as the "stuffing yourself silly" and feeling like crap after going to a restaurant are now totally nonexistant. It should also be said that I have not made any food since arrival (not even a pot of hot water) since meals are (even by local standards) ridiculously cheap: $30 baht ($1) per meal is the norm and on my street there is a place about every 30 feet selling something different. Oh, yeah, and it's as fresh as your wildest dreams can think of, especially the seafood (which is Surat's claim to fame along with coconuts and rambutan <-- lookit up).
Now, eating out for breakfast lunch and dinner and with all this good food (that I eat whenever the Hell I feel like and as much as I want) you'd think "But Terry, what about your already dangerously high weight/cholesterol/blood pressure?". That's the best part! I can eat literally as much as I want and I am loosing pounds. This is in part due to: the heat, it's frakking hot here and I sweat in air-conditioned rooms; the previously mentioned portion sizes; and all the food here is just a bit healthier than a Five Guy's Burger with Spicey Fries and Shake ;)
Well, I bet you were hoping for more of a step-by-step replay of my favourite meals a la Food Channel with descriptions to make your mouth water and wish you were here. Ha! I don't need to do that to know you already want to be here so tough cookies (oh, the cookies here are exotic and amazing). 'Sides, I ain't no Bourdain and if you want that kinda stuff a picture (or video) is worth a thousand words so instead of reading my prose, go watch the Travel Channel a bit ;)
Next Post: More work, and a trip to monkey-lake-dam-place!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Sorry about the absence...
But it's gunna continue for a bit. Work, training, eating delicious food and such has kept me a bit busy (and out of my favourite Internet cafe) but I promise some good stuff when I return. Look forward to:
Movies in Thailand
Big Food Recap: A little more than pad thai
Trip to a lake: I saw a monkey!
Movies in Thailand
Big Food Recap: A little more than pad thai
Trip to a lake: I saw a monkey!
Thursday, May 19, 2011
First Full Day
I didn't honestly believe that leaving America to teach abroad would be an extended vacation, easier still than the part time retail gig I was pushing back in the States; playing with kids, living in a tropical paradise and working maybe 20 hours a week (okay, so maybe I did kinda hope for a while there). However, today the ball dropped, a giant, lead ball dropped on my little, thatch tiki hut of a dream world. No longer will I be working at an afterschool program with small classes (even the largest is only fifteen students) that don't start 'till 16:30 with plenty of prep time beforehand. Oh no, I will be starting at 10:00 every day, with up to 3 classes, some over thirty students, and with no morning prep (unless I deign it necessary to wake up early on my own time).
That is the new life of this English Teacher: full time. Oh yeah, baby, it's begun.
My classes went exactly as I thought: loud, chaotic, soul crushing. The kids don't listen and I spent the entire time shouting just for kids to get out pencils. While I no long feel the lost emptiness and lack of hope that the first day at the After-School Program, even experienced teachers were feeling the hurt of these crazy kids. I will say that the added presence of a Thai Teacher in the room proved to be absolutely necessary (especially with my over-soft and under-developed style of teaching) as just a mere look would quiet a student and a rap on the desk the entire class. Without them I would be utterly useless as a teacher and I already owe one a stack of paper I had to steal (showing up completely unprepared...)
And tomorrow I do it all again (hopefully a little more prepared this time, though).
Oh, and the day had started so well too, I had my first morning run and felt like an absolute king by the end. >_<
That is the new life of this English Teacher: full time. Oh yeah, baby, it's begun.
My classes went exactly as I thought: loud, chaotic, soul crushing. The kids don't listen and I spent the entire time shouting just for kids to get out pencils. While I no long feel the lost emptiness and lack of hope that the first day at the After-School Program, even experienced teachers were feeling the hurt of these crazy kids. I will say that the added presence of a Thai Teacher in the room proved to be absolutely necessary (especially with my over-soft and under-developed style of teaching) as just a mere look would quiet a student and a rap on the desk the entire class. Without them I would be utterly useless as a teacher and I already owe one a stack of paper I had to steal (showing up completely unprepared...)
And tomorrow I do it all again (hopefully a little more prepared this time, though).
Oh, and the day had started so well too, I had my first morning run and felt like an absolute king by the end. >_<
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Muay Thai Day 1 Part 2: First Class and the Sweat Monster returns!
My first class was supposed to take place at 13:00 with one other student who apparently had already had a fight under his belt and was coming for a more technical training regimen. What actually happened was class began at almost 14:00 with two students one who I can only assume is the aforementioned fighter and a younger girl and it looked like I outweighed both of them put together.
Class began slowly with an instruction on how to stand and face your opponent, during which time it was discovered I was a Southpaw. After which we learned to step, move and stay in guard while we did it. Did a few dodging drills and movement practice for a bit.
The class seemed to be going well, with Master Somboon giving instruction first in English then Thai and with K observing and giving corrections during drills. It'll take a while before I get the hang of keeping my guard up and maintaining balance while moving, but that's what practice is all about anyways.
By this time the crippling Thai heat (which at times is the hardest part about the move) and the constant motion and the new strain of having to keep my guard up all the time made me a walking water monster, covering the floor and any poor sap next to me in sweat droplets. As we did stepping and moving practice I would draw lines and patterns on the mat with the constant trickle of water that followed me.
After a bit of practice Master Somboon stops us and gives us a brief speech on how the first class was usually only forward and backwards motion, but that he was abbreviating our training for some reason. We were now to learn the jab. This practice was a bit harder and as it was the first time I was ever to learn how to throw a proper punch (karate most definitely does not count) I was beyond excited. We learned to how lean and step in cover our chin at all times and how to return to guard. After this we practised in front of mirrors for a few minutes, sweat being flung from my arms with every swing.
After about ten minutes or so of that Master Somboon stopped us again and after describing how trainees used to be taught the jab for a whole day and didn't learn anything new till the next class, which is why were all very honoured when he believed we were ready for the jab-cross-jab (1,2,3) combination. Getting to punch with "the knockout" hand was even more fun than the jab and while we still hadn't actually hit anything but air yet, you could be the potential destructive force behind each swing. We practised the 1-2-3 combo for a while with movement with Master Somboon and K making corrections on our form and stance.
Then again, after a little while of that, Master Somboon stopped us again and told us how on the second day the students learned nothing but the 1-2-3 combo and had to usually wait for any kicks, but since we were doing so well he decided to move up the schedule again! I was pretty used to hearing this statement by now and wasn't surprised, but I was happy to learn my first kick in Muay Thai. It turned out to be the push kick, or teep, and this was the best part because after a little instruction and observation we put in front of the bags and got to finally let loose and feel some impacts. Seeing the massive bag swing in huge arcs after a good kick felt great and the impact was something I'd yearned for since the first day of kid's karate.
That pretty much ended up the class with us hitting the bags for a short while (my sweat was now flying everywhere) and we were given water and sat around chatting for a while, watching Master Somboon play fetch with his two huge dogs and a couple of coconuts.
Just in case anyone was wondering if my posts will become one big training log of muay thai classes have no fear! If that statement worries you because you particularly like training logs and have been bored with most of my other writings then you are safe! I am moving all my training logs and musings to http://traininginsurat.blogspot.com/
Class began slowly with an instruction on how to stand and face your opponent, during which time it was discovered I was a Southpaw. After which we learned to step, move and stay in guard while we did it. Did a few dodging drills and movement practice for a bit.
The class seemed to be going well, with Master Somboon giving instruction first in English then Thai and with K observing and giving corrections during drills. It'll take a while before I get the hang of keeping my guard up and maintaining balance while moving, but that's what practice is all about anyways.
By this time the crippling Thai heat (which at times is the hardest part about the move) and the constant motion and the new strain of having to keep my guard up all the time made me a walking water monster, covering the floor and any poor sap next to me in sweat droplets. As we did stepping and moving practice I would draw lines and patterns on the mat with the constant trickle of water that followed me.
After a bit of practice Master Somboon stops us and gives us a brief speech on how the first class was usually only forward and backwards motion, but that he was abbreviating our training for some reason. We were now to learn the jab. This practice was a bit harder and as it was the first time I was ever to learn how to throw a proper punch (karate most definitely does not count) I was beyond excited. We learned to how lean and step in cover our chin at all times and how to return to guard. After this we practised in front of mirrors for a few minutes, sweat being flung from my arms with every swing.
After about ten minutes or so of that Master Somboon stopped us again and after describing how trainees used to be taught the jab for a whole day and didn't learn anything new till the next class, which is why were all very honoured when he believed we were ready for the jab-cross-jab (1,2,3) combination. Getting to punch with "the knockout" hand was even more fun than the jab and while we still hadn't actually hit anything but air yet, you could be the potential destructive force behind each swing. We practised the 1-2-3 combo for a while with movement with Master Somboon and K making corrections on our form and stance.
Then again, after a little while of that, Master Somboon stopped us again and told us how on the second day the students learned nothing but the 1-2-3 combo and had to usually wait for any kicks, but since we were doing so well he decided to move up the schedule again! I was pretty used to hearing this statement by now and wasn't surprised, but I was happy to learn my first kick in Muay Thai. It turned out to be the push kick, or teep, and this was the best part because after a little instruction and observation we put in front of the bags and got to finally let loose and feel some impacts. Seeing the massive bag swing in huge arcs after a good kick felt great and the impact was something I'd yearned for since the first day of kid's karate.
That pretty much ended up the class with us hitting the bags for a short while (my sweat was now flying everywhere) and we were given water and sat around chatting for a while, watching Master Somboon play fetch with his two huge dogs and a couple of coconuts.
Just in case anyone was wondering if my posts will become one big training log of muay thai classes have no fear! If that statement worries you because you particularly like training logs and have been bored with most of my other writings then you are safe! I am moving all my training logs and musings to http://traininginsurat.blogspot.com/
Monday, May 16, 2011
Muay Thai Day 1 Part 1i: A room full of 11 year old professionals
I've trained a few different places in a few different styles and met fighters of every level of skill, experience and dedication; I've also heard plenty of stories from those who've trained at more places and seen more, so I knew kind of what to expect walking into the Muay Thai Academy of Master Somboon in Surat. I knew the Thais started fighting at a young age, that it wasn't something seen as a recreational activity so everyone's a professional, and that they train as rough as they fight (which can be pretty brutal at times). However, knowing what to expect and then finally seeing it for the first time are two completely different animals.
I arrived at the school along with another teacher (M for now) from my school and her boyfriend (K), a trainer at the gym and local athletics school for boys. With their help I was able to communicate my interest, living and working situation (most importantly the schedule) with the master. He's a well known and respected former champion who splits his time running the school pro bono for local boys wanting to enter the professional ring and travelling the world (He's leaving for a month or two soon to run sessions across Europe).
Somboon is a serious man, who seems to take everything head on. His gym is also his home, his bathrooms and shower are the same as the trainees. When asked if he trained the boys for free out of a love of muay thai, he said something along the lines of, "Love muay thai? No. Not at all. They're just poor and need the training". He can appear and disappear without a sound and each time I looked and saw him I wondered how he got there (Thai ninja?). He spoke frankly of everything from the boys, muay thai in general (He gave me a stack of books to browse after which he said flatly, "These books are all old and no good."), the other farang, and even politics.
I was pretty worried because K and Master Somboon both told me about all the problems with other farang training at the school in the past: they had often abused the Thai concept of hospitality to take advantage of the gyms equipment, arriving at odd hours, bringing friends to use the equipment, distracting the more serious Thai students and leaving the place a mess. Due to this history Somboon was very likely to say "No" and that would be it for my chances of training Muay Thai at all in Surat (and in Thailand for at least a year). After the initial meeting Master Somboon had to begin his regular class and said he'd finish with me afterwards.
So between meeting him and my actual processing into the school M and I watched K and the other trainer teach a class. These kids (they were all between the ages of 11 and 15) were incredible. I'd never seen children work so intensely on other than video games. All were built like little Bruce Lee's and each time one his a mitt or bag the "SNAP" reverberated through the place. They moved with such casual speed and power it was difficult to comprehend how anyone could attain such skill until we were informed how most had at least a few fights already and some as many as 20 or more.
I cannot say enough about the difference between these kids and the kids (of the same age or older) who I trained in karate back when I was a teenager. While both are supposed to be learning the martial arts the Thai's are truly little warriors in every sense of the word. They have the strength, speed, attitude and toughness of a fighter that makes the soft and unchallenged karate kids look like spoiled kids in a dance class instead of the martial arts. It's not about ranks and belts and cool looking moves that are like the Power Rangers, but about learning and perfecting the moves they need to win in the ring and succeed in the harsh world of professional combat sports.
After Master Somboon got back from training and his errands and on hearing about my intentions and interest and learning that I am, in fact, half Thai (something that has frequently opened otherwise closed doors in Thailand) he not only graciously allowed me to stay and train, but to start later that day (and at local rates as opposed to the killer foreign rates, which I would have not been able to afford) then took all three of us out to lunch. At lunch he ordered for everyone first, spoke little (when he did it was to the derision of the various parties in the upcoming elections or inquiring a little about me and K). I felt pretty honoured though I had no idea what he was talking about usually (the food was fantastic).
Next Post: My first class, and return of the sweat monster!
I arrived at the school along with another teacher (M for now) from my school and her boyfriend (K), a trainer at the gym and local athletics school for boys. With their help I was able to communicate my interest, living and working situation (most importantly the schedule) with the master. He's a well known and respected former champion who splits his time running the school pro bono for local boys wanting to enter the professional ring and travelling the world (He's leaving for a month or two soon to run sessions across Europe).
Somboon is a serious man, who seems to take everything head on. His gym is also his home, his bathrooms and shower are the same as the trainees. When asked if he trained the boys for free out of a love of muay thai, he said something along the lines of, "Love muay thai? No. Not at all. They're just poor and need the training". He can appear and disappear without a sound and each time I looked and saw him I wondered how he got there (Thai ninja?). He spoke frankly of everything from the boys, muay thai in general (He gave me a stack of books to browse after which he said flatly, "These books are all old and no good."), the other farang, and even politics.
I was pretty worried because K and Master Somboon both told me about all the problems with other farang training at the school in the past: they had often abused the Thai concept of hospitality to take advantage of the gyms equipment, arriving at odd hours, bringing friends to use the equipment, distracting the more serious Thai students and leaving the place a mess. Due to this history Somboon was very likely to say "No" and that would be it for my chances of training Muay Thai at all in Surat (and in Thailand for at least a year). After the initial meeting Master Somboon had to begin his regular class and said he'd finish with me afterwards.
So between meeting him and my actual processing into the school M and I watched K and the other trainer teach a class. These kids (they were all between the ages of 11 and 15) were incredible. I'd never seen children work so intensely on other than video games. All were built like little Bruce Lee's and each time one his a mitt or bag the "SNAP" reverberated through the place. They moved with such casual speed and power it was difficult to comprehend how anyone could attain such skill until we were informed how most had at least a few fights already and some as many as 20 or more.
I cannot say enough about the difference between these kids and the kids (of the same age or older) who I trained in karate back when I was a teenager. While both are supposed to be learning the martial arts the Thai's are truly little warriors in every sense of the word. They have the strength, speed, attitude and toughness of a fighter that makes the soft and unchallenged karate kids look like spoiled kids in a dance class instead of the martial arts. It's not about ranks and belts and cool looking moves that are like the Power Rangers, but about learning and perfecting the moves they need to win in the ring and succeed in the harsh world of professional combat sports.
After Master Somboon got back from training and his errands and on hearing about my intentions and interest and learning that I am, in fact, half Thai (something that has frequently opened otherwise closed doors in Thailand) he not only graciously allowed me to stay and train, but to start later that day (and at local rates as opposed to the killer foreign rates, which I would have not been able to afford) then took all three of us out to lunch. At lunch he ordered for everyone first, spoke little (when he did it was to the derision of the various parties in the upcoming elections or inquiring a little about me and K). I felt pretty honoured though I had no idea what he was talking about usually (the food was fantastic).
Next Post: My first class, and return of the sweat monster!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
First Working Week
I've talked about wanting to come to Thailand for family, culture, food and many other things but I have yet to truly face what got me here and why I'm really in Suratthani (a city I did not know existed in a province I never heard of 6 months ago): A job. I am a certified English as Second/Foreign Language teacher and after this past Monday I now truly am one (if not a bit inexperienced and overwhelmed).
The job I have in Surat is split between two schools; while officially an employee of and paid by an after-school language institute, I am to teach both there and at a private elementary school (Elementary kids in the morning and the Institute ones in the evening). The Institute opened Monday, and the Elementary School starts classes this coming Thursday, which I am not looking forward to getting started.
As for my classes (And younger class of 15 kids followed by a smaller, more advanced group with 7). The younger class, ages 9 - 11, is a tornado of screaming, running kids who have a hard time focusing on anything for more than 30 seconds at a time and who have now demanded the game "7up" (a children's game from back in the U.S.A.) with a chant every day. An absolute handful who never listen to me. The first day had me wanting to quick and go back home with my tail between my legs, but I'm glad I didn't because they seem to slowly be accepting me as a "real" teacher and they're all pretty damn cute.
One student in particular (who goes by the name of "Big") is a complete menace and has gone trough, over the course of 5 days from absolute hyper screaming machine, to catatonic zombie who literally stared at the walls and was completely unresponsive the entire class, to maniac again who was chucking my flashcards out the door when my back was turned. I truly think he's either bipolar or has ADHD. Gotta say, though, if he wasn't my student I'd love him simply because of his crazy antics (he's clever enough to make each one make me want to pee myself laughing).
My older class is the reason why I stayed. After the hectic first day and near heart attack of the younger kids' class I needed a break... and got a double shot of Tums-sized relief pills. Instead of charging past me up the stairs scream they are orderly, and while they like to talk in class (in Thai, which is a no-no) they listen to every word I say, work hard, stay focused and still have room to loosen up and goof around so I know they're still kids and not English-absorbing drones at the end of the day (that and they called me handsome ^_^). All seven are true joys to teach and give me hope for a future in the teaching world for me (I'll get the hang of the kids sooner or later... I hope).
More specific details on the classes, their students and the structure of each class are sure to follow as soon as I: start teaching all my classes, learn how to make a truly effective lesson plan and carry it out, and learn all my students' names... yeah right.
Next post: My First Muay Thai Class! (w00t!)
The job I have in Surat is split between two schools; while officially an employee of and paid by an after-school language institute, I am to teach both there and at a private elementary school (Elementary kids in the morning and the Institute ones in the evening). The Institute opened Monday, and the Elementary School starts classes this coming Thursday, which I am not looking forward to getting started.
As for my classes (And younger class of 15 kids followed by a smaller, more advanced group with 7). The younger class, ages 9 - 11, is a tornado of screaming, running kids who have a hard time focusing on anything for more than 30 seconds at a time and who have now demanded the game "7up" (a children's game from back in the U.S.A.) with a chant every day. An absolute handful who never listen to me. The first day had me wanting to quick and go back home with my tail between my legs, but I'm glad I didn't because they seem to slowly be accepting me as a "real" teacher and they're all pretty damn cute.
One student in particular (who goes by the name of "Big") is a complete menace and has gone trough, over the course of 5 days from absolute hyper screaming machine, to catatonic zombie who literally stared at the walls and was completely unresponsive the entire class, to maniac again who was chucking my flashcards out the door when my back was turned. I truly think he's either bipolar or has ADHD. Gotta say, though, if he wasn't my student I'd love him simply because of his crazy antics (he's clever enough to make each one make me want to pee myself laughing).
My older class is the reason why I stayed. After the hectic first day and near heart attack of the younger kids' class I needed a break... and got a double shot of Tums-sized relief pills. Instead of charging past me up the stairs scream they are orderly, and while they like to talk in class (in Thai, which is a no-no) they listen to every word I say, work hard, stay focused and still have room to loosen up and goof around so I know they're still kids and not English-absorbing drones at the end of the day (that and they called me handsome ^_^). All seven are true joys to teach and give me hope for a future in the teaching world for me (I'll get the hang of the kids sooner or later... I hope).
More specific details on the classes, their students and the structure of each class are sure to follow as soon as I: start teaching all my classes, learn how to make a truly effective lesson plan and carry it out, and learn all my students' names... yeah right.
Next post: My First Muay Thai Class! (w00t!)
Saturday, May 7, 2011
The Beach
Having arrived in Surat with a few days to spare before training got under way the group (those of us who'd made it to Thailand so far) decided to pack up once again and take an hour bus to Khonom beach for a couple of days.
After arriving and working out our housing arrangements we found the beach completely deserted, the water clear blue and the sand a powdery white that stretched at such a gently slope one was 30 or 40 meters out at least before the water was past chest height and by the time you had to swim to stay afloat the entire beach from end to end (framed by magnificent green mountains) was almost entirely in your field of vision. As we lounged in the sand, on the benches and hammocks and drank beers in the pool we all got to know each other and bond as a group.
Later Annie, Jackie and I went on a stroll to the end of the beach where we had spotted a pier earlier and were told that pink dolphins (yes, pink dolphins) could be spotted off of it. Before we got to the end of the pier (which looked much more industrial and was guarded on closer inspection) we happened upon by a group of kids chilling and playing guitar who brought us over with shouts of "Happy!" and "One Love!". The teens, Nat, Muang (Mango), Monkey, Gay, and Mai were giggly and cheerful and after some broken conversation invited us back that night to what was apparently their camp-site for dinner. On the way back we would end up meeting Rosie and Nath, who live on a house by the beach, as I vainly tried to get a coconut (scarily reminiscent of my last trip when I was 10). As we sat there, drinking coco milk and chatting with Rosie we caught sight of the rest of the group who'd followed us out and waved them down and shared more coconuts and chatted till we made our way back to Nat's camp.
At his camp we met the mother and father of two of the kids (not all related) where they had a huge bonfire going and a feast of grilled fish, shrimp, a bunch of other foods and sticky rice which we all shared with a bottle of rice whiskey that we brought for them. We ate and drank late into the night, chatting, playing music and saw a literal storm of falling stars that seemed to cap the night with their brilliance and unexpected arrival. When we left, the group escorted us back to our resort with flashlights so we could see (and in doing so saved us from potentially stepping on a squid, a jelleyfish and a live sea-snake).
The next morning we all wandered around sleepy and a little hungover (I was sunburnt to a crisp) and after a last dip in the ocean made our way back to the city.
After arriving and working out our housing arrangements we found the beach completely deserted, the water clear blue and the sand a powdery white that stretched at such a gently slope one was 30 or 40 meters out at least before the water was past chest height and by the time you had to swim to stay afloat the entire beach from end to end (framed by magnificent green mountains) was almost entirely in your field of vision. As we lounged in the sand, on the benches and hammocks and drank beers in the pool we all got to know each other and bond as a group.
Later Annie, Jackie and I went on a stroll to the end of the beach where we had spotted a pier earlier and were told that pink dolphins (yes, pink dolphins) could be spotted off of it. Before we got to the end of the pier (which looked much more industrial and was guarded on closer inspection) we happened upon by a group of kids chilling and playing guitar who brought us over with shouts of "Happy!" and "One Love!". The teens, Nat, Muang (Mango), Monkey, Gay, and Mai were giggly and cheerful and after some broken conversation invited us back that night to what was apparently their camp-site for dinner. On the way back we would end up meeting Rosie and Nath, who live on a house by the beach, as I vainly tried to get a coconut (scarily reminiscent of my last trip when I was 10). As we sat there, drinking coco milk and chatting with Rosie we caught sight of the rest of the group who'd followed us out and waved them down and shared more coconuts and chatted till we made our way back to Nat's camp.
At his camp we met the mother and father of two of the kids (not all related) where they had a huge bonfire going and a feast of grilled fish, shrimp, a bunch of other foods and sticky rice which we all shared with a bottle of rice whiskey that we brought for them. We ate and drank late into the night, chatting, playing music and saw a literal storm of falling stars that seemed to cap the night with their brilliance and unexpected arrival. When we left, the group escorted us back to our resort with flashlights so we could see (and in doing so saved us from potentially stepping on a squid, a jelleyfish and a live sea-snake).
The next morning we all wandered around sleepy and a little hungover (I was sunburnt to a crisp) and after a last dip in the ocean made our way back to the city.
Landing in Surat and my new home
So after about a week of bouncing around Bangkok, seeing long lost relatives, taking part in a Thai Easter and coming to grips that "loose stools" will now be a norm it was time for me to catch my flight to Suratthani. After dinner my little cousins (two brothers) came into my room and with the most English I'd heard them use to date showed my pictures of, and described their recent trip to China, it was really touching and a great way to say goodbye.
However, that night I didn't sleep at all, nerves and a bad case of diarrhea dominating my thoughts and bowels (I gorged myself on some snack we got while visiting a group of nuns). Would I get along with the other teachers? What would the town be like? And the school? There were so many unknowns and the only pictures of the town and other teachers I got were of either flooding or a fabled Full Moon Party (held every full moon) that seems to make Woodstock look tame in comparison.
The next morning one of my cousins (from Chiang Mai) drove me to the airport at around 05:00 where after some complications with my bags we sat down for breakfast (I, wasn't feeling so great so I just had a coffee). Worried thoughts still prevalent, I was unable to focus and we quickly made way to the terminal and said goodbye. When I made it to the terminal all my fears melted at Annie and Jill, the two teachers I was supposed to meet in Bangkok, waved me over all excited smiles. As we sat waiting for the plane we talked about where we came from, what we did before and what our experiences the past week in Thailand have been.
The plane flight itself was over before I knew it, and we exited to the small but really nice Suratthani airport where after collecting out bags we were immediately met by Darren, the academic director, and Jena another teacher who was coming from Vietnam and already been travelling for 5 years. We all piled into a small van and brought to our new homes to deposit our belongings and get a look around. The houses being older versions of what my family has in Bangkok, with two or three levels, multiple balconies and a front courtyard with a gate (Mine has a palm tree!). Our beds are the largest I've ever slept in (king size, baby) and minus a slight roach problem, very comfortable (did I mention I have a pool table, too?). Very impressed now with my new accommodations we were brought on a quick tour of the town (which is very small) and then went and got some key supplies we'd need at the local Lotus (kind of like a Walmart). Darren seemed very friendly and laid back and I was impressed by Jena's wealth of knowledge from her many years teaching and travelling (those two being my real first pro-expatriots).
After the girls were dropped back off at their home Darren and I went to the pier where we talked a bit about travelling, Thailand, teaching and a few things until we went and picked up three more new teachers Mark (one of my roomates) Kelly and Jackie. They all seemed nice but exhausted from their travels and we were dropped off until dinner which we all got at the pier that night.
However, that night I didn't sleep at all, nerves and a bad case of diarrhea dominating my thoughts and bowels (I gorged myself on some snack we got while visiting a group of nuns). Would I get along with the other teachers? What would the town be like? And the school? There were so many unknowns and the only pictures of the town and other teachers I got were of either flooding or a fabled Full Moon Party (held every full moon) that seems to make Woodstock look tame in comparison.
The next morning one of my cousins (from Chiang Mai) drove me to the airport at around 05:00 where after some complications with my bags we sat down for breakfast (I, wasn't feeling so great so I just had a coffee). Worried thoughts still prevalent, I was unable to focus and we quickly made way to the terminal and said goodbye. When I made it to the terminal all my fears melted at Annie and Jill, the two teachers I was supposed to meet in Bangkok, waved me over all excited smiles. As we sat waiting for the plane we talked about where we came from, what we did before and what our experiences the past week in Thailand have been.
The plane flight itself was over before I knew it, and we exited to the small but really nice Suratthani airport where after collecting out bags we were immediately met by Darren, the academic director, and Jena another teacher who was coming from Vietnam and already been travelling for 5 years. We all piled into a small van and brought to our new homes to deposit our belongings and get a look around. The houses being older versions of what my family has in Bangkok, with two or three levels, multiple balconies and a front courtyard with a gate (Mine has a palm tree!). Our beds are the largest I've ever slept in (king size, baby) and minus a slight roach problem, very comfortable (did I mention I have a pool table, too?). Very impressed now with my new accommodations we were brought on a quick tour of the town (which is very small) and then went and got some key supplies we'd need at the local Lotus (kind of like a Walmart). Darren seemed very friendly and laid back and I was impressed by Jena's wealth of knowledge from her many years teaching and travelling (those two being my real first pro-expatriots).
After the girls were dropped back off at their home Darren and I went to the pier where we talked a bit about travelling, Thailand, teaching and a few things until we went and picked up three more new teachers Mark (one of my roomates) Kelly and Jackie. They all seemed nice but exhausted from their travels and we were dropped off until dinner which we all got at the pier that night.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Bangkok
A lot of people have been to and wrote about Bangkok already so I won't really put too much into this since it's not even where I'm staying but suffice it to say it's a big city with a crazy story. I had a great time there, but mostly thanks to my awesome family who knew exactly where to take me for a good time, and bypassed all (or at least most) of the tourist traps, price gouged markets and general sleaze (don't get me wrong, we still saw enough human trafficking to fill me with plenty of rage).
When entering the Grand Royal Palace I was snuck in with my family and last name through the Thai Entrance (which was a few hundred baht less) which was more of a blast than most of the palace itself. I saw the Chao Praya on a river bus that was a few thousand less than the tourist trip down that took us somewhere useful (instead of a hotel). After that it's a bit of a blur as my cousin took his sons, a maid's daughter and I on a dizzying tour of what must have been every single major (and possibly minor) mall in Bangkok and covered at least 3k by foot before we all finally collapsed back in his taxi completely exhausted.
For the next few days I was given a little easier treatment: getting small trips to awesome open-air markets that would make Anthony Bourdain weep (accompanied by my cousins who grew up with the vendors and were local shop owners themselves), road trips to the hometown of one of their fiance's, an art museum (one of the better ones I've been to), ancient ruins of Ayatollah, a floating market, and plenty of great, great food.
I never made it to the real slums, or the crazy Kao San Road and skipped the night life altogether. I stayed in a beautiful room with a nice view and home made breakfast every morning so my experiences feel leagues apart from those others who've been there, but I'm honestly glad for it and while it's definitely not my favourite city (I don't even like it, really), I can see why others love it and it's as famous as it is.
When entering the Grand Royal Palace I was snuck in with my family and last name through the Thai Entrance (which was a few hundred baht less) which was more of a blast than most of the palace itself. I saw the Chao Praya on a river bus that was a few thousand less than the tourist trip down that took us somewhere useful (instead of a hotel). After that it's a bit of a blur as my cousin took his sons, a maid's daughter and I on a dizzying tour of what must have been every single major (and possibly minor) mall in Bangkok and covered at least 3k by foot before we all finally collapsed back in his taxi completely exhausted.
For the next few days I was given a little easier treatment: getting small trips to awesome open-air markets that would make Anthony Bourdain weep (accompanied by my cousins who grew up with the vendors and were local shop owners themselves), road trips to the hometown of one of their fiance's, an art museum (one of the better ones I've been to), ancient ruins of Ayatollah, a floating market, and plenty of great, great food.
I never made it to the real slums, or the crazy Kao San Road and skipped the night life altogether. I stayed in a beautiful room with a nice view and home made breakfast every morning so my experiences feel leagues apart from those others who've been there, but I'm honestly glad for it and while it's definitely not my favourite city (I don't even like it, really), I can see why others love it and it's as famous as it is.
Easter
I'm not very religious, usually only allowing my mom's big concert nights or dad's fear for my immortal soul to get me anywhere near a church so it was a little bit surprising that only a few hours after touching down in Bangkok I found myself in my "Sunday best" listening to mass in a language I could not comprehend at all. In the next three days I would experience a further three masses, a stations of the cross and a rosary prayer service.
My family in Thailand is part of the very close-knit and strong Thai-Catholic Community and while I was told it would be "okay" for me to bow out of services (I had plenty of ready excuses, from language to jet lag) that first night was the only time I left the actual service (I nearly passed out in my pew). While the readings and sermons went by without a hint of understanding (I usually didn't know where one stopped and the other started), the prayers unfollowable and the ceremonies all-too familiar the music was excellent, unique and uplifting and any time I could spend with my family, I feel, was time well spent.
On Easter Day itself I was actually brought by my cousin and his fiance to her hometown diocese where a sort of shrine and museum to a famous Thai martyr is entombed. The church and shrine were actually beautiful and the story of the martyr Philip Siphong Onphitak was told with such passion and true belief that even someone who has been so far removed from the church was impressed and moved. I also got to meet my cousin's fiance's aunt who is a chatty and hilarious woman who I completely adore and hope to meet again soon and all in all it was a great time (with added nun-snack pickup on the way back!).
Later, back in Bangkok after another mass that stunned me with its stages of the cross ceremony and music (here's a link to the church's music page: http://www.catholic.or.th/service/song/) and had one of the best after parties where I got to chat with an American-Thai and his family with having home cooked noodles and coffee. At this last part I really got the feel of the community and had a lot of fun just mingling and looking lost in the crowd.
I have to say, while none of this served to "bring be back into the fold" or anything like that, I was surprised how easy it was to both slip back on the ceremonial shoes (I never understood the priests when they were speaking English anyway) and I did get to call home and tell them how religious I'd been for the week (which I'm sure they got a kick out of).
My family in Thailand is part of the very close-knit and strong Thai-Catholic Community and while I was told it would be "okay" for me to bow out of services (I had plenty of ready excuses, from language to jet lag) that first night was the only time I left the actual service (I nearly passed out in my pew). While the readings and sermons went by without a hint of understanding (I usually didn't know where one stopped and the other started), the prayers unfollowable and the ceremonies all-too familiar the music was excellent, unique and uplifting and any time I could spend with my family, I feel, was time well spent.
On Easter Day itself I was actually brought by my cousin and his fiance to her hometown diocese where a sort of shrine and museum to a famous Thai martyr is entombed. The church and shrine were actually beautiful and the story of the martyr Philip Siphong Onphitak was told with such passion and true belief that even someone who has been so far removed from the church was impressed and moved. I also got to meet my cousin's fiance's aunt who is a chatty and hilarious woman who I completely adore and hope to meet again soon and all in all it was a great time (with added nun-snack pickup on the way back!).
Later, back in Bangkok after another mass that stunned me with its stages of the cross ceremony and music (here's a link to the church's music page: http://www.catholic.or.th/service/song/) and had one of the best after parties where I got to chat with an American-Thai and his family with having home cooked noodles and coffee. At this last part I really got the feel of the community and had a lot of fun just mingling and looking lost in the crowd.
I have to say, while none of this served to "bring be back into the fold" or anything like that, I was surprised how easy it was to both slip back on the ceremonial shoes (I never understood the priests when they were speaking English anyway) and I did get to call home and tell them how religious I'd been for the week (which I'm sure they got a kick out of).
Friday, April 29, 2011
Arrival
Getting off the plane in Suwanapoom Airport in Bangkok was like stepping into a strange dream. I smelt it long before I saw it, as the strange and unforgettable odor came in like an unseen mist and filled the cabin memories of past visits suddenly exploded in my mind; everything that was Thailand to me was encompassed by this smell and memories I thought I'd lost returned like an unrelenting flood.
The airport itself is massive, you can see it stretch out along the tarmac for what seems like miles. It's modern, it's air-conditioned, and it's one of the most crowded places I ever been to. I arrived at around 11:35 but did not actually get out of the Immigration Line until almost two hours later, stuck between a Malay family and a creepy English old guy who kept looking at the Malay's young boy I had nothing to do but practice my Thai until I got to the checkout counter. After I grabbed my baggage a Thai guy walks right up to me, places my bags on a cart and leads me to the exit, where we begin a desperate search for my family (who now had been waiting for at least an hour and a half). My cousin and one of the kids are the first to spot me and they bring me to a van with the others. I'm introduced to my cousins sons (whose English is surprisingly fluid) and we take off in the crazy Bangkok traffic for my first meal in Thailand (and since leaving Taipei).
We arrived at a large shopping complex (there's a lot here) and in the food court we go to a Chinese place called "MK" where I we get hotpot and buns and I am fed till bursting, while sitting across from the boys as I catch up with my cuz's.
At home I am greeted by my aunt and am placed in my room upstairs. Later I would be brought to mass (all in Thai) where I nearly fell asleep in my pew and was brought back early so I could pass out properly, propped up next to the air-conditioner vent.
Thursday, April 21, 2011
The Big Flight and locked in Taipei Airport's motel prison
Well... not a cage so much and I was locked in, but I was unable to get out of the airport the entire time and there was absolutely nothing to do but tune into Chinese subbed, American action movies from 10 years ago and stretch (I had to after the flight).
So Taipei airport isn't exactly the most accommodating after 22:00, but to be fair after a slow opening they had some decent noodles and even a blind-person-massage-parlor that I didn't get to use. The flight in itself was actually pretty unremarkable, the 14 hours wiled away to the not-so-quiet hum of the engines and while I found that even 3 days latter my lower back still thinks it's missing a vertebrae or two, with a few timely stretches and walks to the bathroom (more for my legs than my bladder) I was able to get by without too much trouble. I didn't sleep much but most of the flight I was watching one movie or another either on my laptop or the seat-screen and did quite a bit of reading (Having an ereader on a plane is extremely handy as they have none of the weight and size of a few books). Luckily, in the middle section they had three seats, the middle one being empty leaving me and my left-side counterpart both two wonderful armrests all to ourselves and an empty space with which to throw our bags and computers.
On arriving in Taipei I was informed I had to pay $100 dollars for the airport motel (they called it a hotel, it wasn't) or have all my baggage dumped outside the airport at 22:00 and with a guy who has never been to Taipei and has no idea where the hotels are (and with no real way to look them up or any Taiwanese money). So very groggily I took their directions (which only worked because the airport is basically a straight line) and got to my room and even though I was told I'd be woken for the flight to Bangkok, either due to excitement or worry or both I was unable to sleep and spent the night emailing various people in other (daylight) time zones. This was one of the roughest nights so far.
The next morning I got out of my room as the airport was still waking up and spend a few hours waking around, wishing I could get a massage by a blind person until the cafes opened and I could get something to eat. After that I grabbed my bags and waited at the gate 'till my flight arrived (08:30).
So Taipei airport isn't exactly the most accommodating after 22:00, but to be fair after a slow opening they had some decent noodles and even a blind-person-massage-parlor that I didn't get to use. The flight in itself was actually pretty unremarkable, the 14 hours wiled away to the not-so-quiet hum of the engines and while I found that even 3 days latter my lower back still thinks it's missing a vertebrae or two, with a few timely stretches and walks to the bathroom (more for my legs than my bladder) I was able to get by without too much trouble. I didn't sleep much but most of the flight I was watching one movie or another either on my laptop or the seat-screen and did quite a bit of reading (Having an ereader on a plane is extremely handy as they have none of the weight and size of a few books). Luckily, in the middle section they had three seats, the middle one being empty leaving me and my left-side counterpart both two wonderful armrests all to ourselves and an empty space with which to throw our bags and computers.
On arriving in Taipei I was informed I had to pay $100 dollars for the airport motel (they called it a hotel, it wasn't) or have all my baggage dumped outside the airport at 22:00 and with a guy who has never been to Taipei and has no idea where the hotels are (and with no real way to look them up or any Taiwanese money). So very groggily I took their directions (which only worked because the airport is basically a straight line) and got to my room and even though I was told I'd be woken for the flight to Bangkok, either due to excitement or worry or both I was unable to sleep and spent the night emailing various people in other (daylight) time zones. This was one of the roughest nights so far.
The next morning I got out of my room as the airport was still waking up and spend a few hours waking around, wishing I could get a massage by a blind person until the cafes opened and I could get something to eat. After that I grabbed my bags and waited at the gate 'till my flight arrived (08:30).
LA
After I landed in LA from Milwaukee my cousins picked my up from the airport and brought me to their place, it was great to see them as the last time I visited was easily 6 or 7 years ago and I was just a little kid. For the next few days I would find myself travelling around the city eating at places that Food Network hosts would envy (I put on something like 4 pounds right away) and playing with my little cousin/nephew (depending on what culture you're in). It was a great and much needed American vacation and I was able to unwind and relax a bit while at the same time was brought by one of my cousins, who was an experienced Thai traveller, to 3 Targets, 2 sporting goods stores and a few other places to get more than double the clothes I had brought and over triple the sunscreen. What's funny is that even though my luggage was now at least 30% larger than before, I have gotten much better at packing my bags and they fit even better than when I packed to leave Boston.
Not only did they help me on the packing side of things, but I was given a little notebook and immediately filled the first four pages with Thai words and phrases that I would most likely need for survival (I was given two ways to say "diarrhoea") and with the help of my nephew, worked on the pronunciation. With all that being said I felt a great deal more prepared for Thailand than before (with some real knowledge instead of web-surf-stuff) and was able to relax even more from that than from the food.
After all that it was sad to leave everyone and I wished I had more time to visit them, but they said that they are coming to Thailand in a few months so hopefully I will get the chance to see them again soon and they got me a bus to LAX (which is a confusing lil' airport if I ever saw one).
Not only did they help me on the packing side of things, but I was given a little notebook and immediately filled the first four pages with Thai words and phrases that I would most likely need for survival (I was given two ways to say "diarrhoea") and with the help of my nephew, worked on the pronunciation. With all that being said I felt a great deal more prepared for Thailand than before (with some real knowledge instead of web-surf-stuff) and was able to relax even more from that than from the food.
After all that it was sad to leave everyone and I wished I had more time to visit them, but they said that they are coming to Thailand in a few months so hopefully I will get the chance to see them again soon and they got me a bus to LAX (which is a confusing lil' airport if I ever saw one).
Friday, April 15, 2011
Flights 1 & 2 Complete!
I would like to tell the world that when I approached the Hot Gates of TSA Insecurity that I stood firm, held my ground and announced boldly “Go! Feel my junk for today I wear no underpants and refuse to be scanned by your machine!”... yes, that would have made a good story for the blog. Instead, I shuffled along and meekly protested with hard looks at the bored and distracted employees and whispered a half-hearted and silly sounding “I surrender” (like the French) as I stood with my arms raised above my head as my un-underwear’d manhood got pelted by who knows how much radiation and x-ray stuff, and I didn’t even have a boner to show off. That and the quiet and anti-climactic farewell to my family at the gate as I trudged into line for the scan-o-ma-bob made for a very awkward and slightly disheartening beginning to my first flight.
The flight itself got a little better as I was luckily given a Business Class seat next to a Giant Fat Man who, in coach, would have crushed me instantly and for the entire flight. As it was I was saved with ample wiggle room and two plush armrests to spare in a nice plush and leather seat the entire ride. This ended up being perfect as I instantly passed out on sitting down. The last thing I truly remember before waking up on touchdown is the slight mesmerizing effect of the line of faces as the other (coach) passengers took to their seats.
This was something I had actually tried to avoid with coffee earlier because I knew that of the two flights that day, that the first and shorter (2 hours) one was not the ideal “pass out” flight as I figured I would be groggy while finding my next flight and would not be able to sleep at all on the longer flight to LAX (4 hours), not to mention having to stay awake until boarding. Sadly, these predictions were all true and while I did not sleep a wink on the flight to LA, was in coach the entire time and kept on getting whacked by the stewardesses as they handed out two measly crackers during the flight the trip was for the most part enjoyable and not difficult in the least. A working wifi connection provided ample relief from boredom and while the seats may not have been plush leather, they were in fact quite comfortable and at no time did I feel any envy to the current business class passengers (though it did take much longer to get on and off the plane).
One thing does worry me though, and that is at about halfway through the flight, after glimpsing a series of mountain ranges which I took to be the Rockies, I packed up my laptop and sat in quiet anticipation of our soon-to-be landing. This happened a little under two hours short of the actual landing, a fact that I did not discover until a half an hour later from a stewardess. In itself this is not so bad, as I was able to re-unpack my laptop and begin surfing the web again in earnest, but getting the feeling that I had passed 4 hours in only a little over 2 does not bode well for my future 14 and 4 hours flights to Taipei and Bangkok on Monday.
The flight itself got a little better as I was luckily given a Business Class seat next to a Giant Fat Man who, in coach, would have crushed me instantly and for the entire flight. As it was I was saved with ample wiggle room and two plush armrests to spare in a nice plush and leather seat the entire ride. This ended up being perfect as I instantly passed out on sitting down. The last thing I truly remember before waking up on touchdown is the slight mesmerizing effect of the line of faces as the other (coach) passengers took to their seats.
This was something I had actually tried to avoid with coffee earlier because I knew that of the two flights that day, that the first and shorter (2 hours) one was not the ideal “pass out” flight as I figured I would be groggy while finding my next flight and would not be able to sleep at all on the longer flight to LAX (4 hours), not to mention having to stay awake until boarding. Sadly, these predictions were all true and while I did not sleep a wink on the flight to LA, was in coach the entire time and kept on getting whacked by the stewardesses as they handed out two measly crackers during the flight the trip was for the most part enjoyable and not difficult in the least. A working wifi connection provided ample relief from boredom and while the seats may not have been plush leather, they were in fact quite comfortable and at no time did I feel any envy to the current business class passengers (though it did take much longer to get on and off the plane).
One thing does worry me though, and that is at about halfway through the flight, after glimpsing a series of mountain ranges which I took to be the Rockies, I packed up my laptop and sat in quiet anticipation of our soon-to-be landing. This happened a little under two hours short of the actual landing, a fact that I did not discover until a half an hour later from a stewardess. In itself this is not so bad, as I was able to re-unpack my laptop and begin surfing the web again in earnest, but getting the feeling that I had passed 4 hours in only a little over 2 does not bode well for my future 14 and 4 hours flights to Taipei and Bangkok on Monday.
Those Left Behind
In my rush to leave the U.S.A. I ended up missing a lot of things: my sunglasses, spare prescription glasses, peptobismal and my inoculations (which could potentially kill me in all sorts of interestingly painful ways), but most of all I have missed my people. Friends and family who I have either not seen in ages and now will most likely not get another chance for years and others who I may have seen weeks ago but would liked to have said final farewells to. I’ve honestly never been good at staying in touch and I’m sure that some people still think I’m working retail in small-town Massachusetts right now. I feel bad about it all, but things like forgetting to call or write or visit someone while I’m caught up in the day-to-days of life (never-mind epic journey’s across the other side of the globe) seems to be second nature for me even when I have the best intentions. So, to all the people who I said I’d visit and didn’t, and all the people who don’t even know I’m gone I am sorry; I don’t care about you any less it’s just a combination of situation and personal-wiring that made it inevitable for me to leave you behind without any last goodbyes and I truly regret that.
Nest Post: My Flights (Actual Travelling! )
Nest Post: My Flights (Actual Travelling! )
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Rushing for a visa
“Okay, but you must arrive today... yes, today”, she said with finality. It looks like I’d have to find a way to make it to the Thai Consulate in New York City (a four hour drive at best) by 12:30 or I would not be able to get my 90 day “B” Teaching visa before I left for California, and without that, I couldn’t get in the country to teach and later get a one year teaching visa (it was 09:30).
Now it turns out that she was wrong, and I was able to make it to the consulate the next day and hand it in at 11:30 no problem, but that phone call and the ensuing hopeless panic is a good summary of my entire application and travel process to this day: lots to do and it had to be done yesterday. First applied to this school in Suratthani on a whim; my TEFL seminar had finished spellchecking my resume and they were about to start sending out applications to their constituents around the world on my behalf and I kind of figured, “Why the Hell not?” and sent out a single application to the only Thai school on the International Jobs Board on a popular TEFL website (Dave's ESL Cafe). I didn’t even expect a reply (many of the Taiwanese schools I tried after graduation never did) so when I get an invitation to a Skype interview a few days later I was stunned speechless.
That was March 5th. By the 8th I had a job offer, I was to begin training and teaching on May 1st; less than two months to prepare for my longest stay abroad and a first step in a brand new career. Two days later I was given my teacher’s contract, visa application checklist and a request for an arrival date (plus a handful of other, lesser documents I had to read or sign). Within a little over a month’s time I had booked three flights, gotten a police records check, and been two consulates (both Boston and New York). The communication I had with other teachers revealed similar levels of daze and extreme pressure, especially for the other first timers like myself.
My family in Thailand, who had been blissfully unaware of any of my goings on at all had to be informed of my arrival in their country (and told that it was not just a visit, but that I had graduated from school and was working). Thankfully, the Internet made this a quicker process than it used to be (while reading the compiled letters of my ancestor Patrick Glennon, the dates between each letter and response could be over a month apart) and I was able to contact my cousins (who I had not seen since they came to America to study when I was a child) through email and Facebook. Everyone seems very excited and I can’t wait to see them again, even after all this time (and apparently a few kids) and it’ll be nice both not to have to pay for a hotel in Bangkok and have the help show me how to get a cell phone and bank account.
In terms of packing, it has mostly taken place in the last week. I plan on taking a suitcase, a backpack and I’m bringing The Gibson which was a gift from an old friend (even if I am rhythm deaf and practice only occasionally). The backpack, which will be my carry-on, is filled mostly with cranberries, macadamia nuts and chocolates for the aunts and uncles and kids of the family for once I meet them and my computer. The suitcase has all the rest of my living essentials (or at least what I can think of anyways) which mostly includes clothes and hygienics.
Sadly, it is all for naught as I am bound to die by the hand of some nasty and completely fatal indigenous disease as while I had time to get the first round of shots I need from the travel clinic I have both missed my last appointment and will have to miss my next due to time constraints (I will sadly be in New York for my visa during my scheduled shot-taking). This predicament, which could have been completely avoided I should add by a more prompt me, leaves me to the mercy of Hepatitis B and Typhoid Fever which both sound wholly unpleasant. Thankfully, for a third-world country, Thailand has a medical industry on par or possibly even better than our own here in the US of A and I will be able to complete my round of inoculations once I arrive. This will make for some very interesting drinking though, as Hep B is the main “bad water” virus and even the ice cubes in Thailand could be carrying it.
All of this and more has made a jam-packed March/April and while I’ve learned a lot about prior preparation, it does mean that there are more than a few things I think I’m lacking (the shots alone show that) and that things should stay interesting and eventful on my arrival; hopefully making for some interesting reading.
Now it turns out that she was wrong, and I was able to make it to the consulate the next day and hand it in at 11:30 no problem, but that phone call and the ensuing hopeless panic is a good summary of my entire application and travel process to this day: lots to do and it had to be done yesterday. First applied to this school in Suratthani on a whim; my TEFL seminar had finished spellchecking my resume and they were about to start sending out applications to their constituents around the world on my behalf and I kind of figured, “Why the Hell not?” and sent out a single application to the only Thai school on the International Jobs Board on a popular TEFL website (Dave's ESL Cafe). I didn’t even expect a reply (many of the Taiwanese schools I tried after graduation never did) so when I get an invitation to a Skype interview a few days later I was stunned speechless.
That was March 5th. By the 8th I had a job offer, I was to begin training and teaching on May 1st; less than two months to prepare for my longest stay abroad and a first step in a brand new career. Two days later I was given my teacher’s contract, visa application checklist and a request for an arrival date (plus a handful of other, lesser documents I had to read or sign). Within a little over a month’s time I had booked three flights, gotten a police records check, and been two consulates (both Boston and New York). The communication I had with other teachers revealed similar levels of daze and extreme pressure, especially for the other first timers like myself.
My family in Thailand, who had been blissfully unaware of any of my goings on at all had to be informed of my arrival in their country (and told that it was not just a visit, but that I had graduated from school and was working). Thankfully, the Internet made this a quicker process than it used to be (while reading the compiled letters of my ancestor Patrick Glennon, the dates between each letter and response could be over a month apart) and I was able to contact my cousins (who I had not seen since they came to America to study when I was a child) through email and Facebook. Everyone seems very excited and I can’t wait to see them again, even after all this time (and apparently a few kids) and it’ll be nice both not to have to pay for a hotel in Bangkok and have the help show me how to get a cell phone and bank account.
In terms of packing, it has mostly taken place in the last week. I plan on taking a suitcase, a backpack and I’m bringing The Gibson which was a gift from an old friend (even if I am rhythm deaf and practice only occasionally). The backpack, which will be my carry-on, is filled mostly with cranberries, macadamia nuts and chocolates for the aunts and uncles and kids of the family for once I meet them and my computer. The suitcase has all the rest of my living essentials (or at least what I can think of anyways) which mostly includes clothes and hygienics.
Sadly, it is all for naught as I am bound to die by the hand of some nasty and completely fatal indigenous disease as while I had time to get the first round of shots I need from the travel clinic I have both missed my last appointment and will have to miss my next due to time constraints (I will sadly be in New York for my visa during my scheduled shot-taking). This predicament, which could have been completely avoided I should add by a more prompt me, leaves me to the mercy of Hepatitis B and Typhoid Fever which both sound wholly unpleasant. Thankfully, for a third-world country, Thailand has a medical industry on par or possibly even better than our own here in the US of A and I will be able to complete my round of inoculations once I arrive. This will make for some very interesting drinking though, as Hep B is the main “bad water” virus and even the ice cubes in Thailand could be carrying it.
All of this and more has made a jam-packed March/April and while I’ve learned a lot about prior preparation, it does mean that there are more than a few things I think I’m lacking (the shots alone show that) and that things should stay interesting and eventful on my arrival; hopefully making for some interesting reading.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
T-minus 7 days...
I've come across a few standard responses when I tell people I'm moving to Thailand for work. Most involve some sort of wide-eyed staring and a good amount of surprised stammering (I can't tell you how awkward it makes me sometimes) and then a flood of questions like "Why?" and "How long?". And, to tell the truth, I hate that because I have some pretty shitty answers.
Most of the time when asked why, I try to dodge the question with a "Why not?". It saves time and makes them feel about as awkward as I do when they ask. It's a good question, though. I like to take it in stages, the choice to teach, the choice to leave the country and the choice of where I landed (there were a lot of options).
Aside from early feelings of stage fright teaching, for me, has always been easy. Part an act, keep whoever you're teaching entertained; part mentor-ship where you provide guidance and give approval or discipline and of course part tool to be used to impart knowledge. I've been teaching one thing or another (karate, religion, English) since I was a teenager and always felt comfortable in that role. That, and a degree in Psychology with which I had no real plans for meant teaching English, which required no more than a one month certification program and a BA in any subject, was perfect for me.
The decision to leave America was the easiest. I want to travel, always have. My father was an immigrant/traveler and one of my favorite books is the travel journal kept by my great-great-great grandfather Patrick who came from Ireland to America and then from Boston out West with the wagon trains. I've played with the idea of everything from military service to the Peace Corps, but I only really started taking the concept truly seriously at the same time I heard about English Teaching as a professional option. While working at a large computer retailer store I helped a young couple that just got back from a whirlwind, five year excursion across Taiwan and China. As we talked, I learned they were English teachers and had gone directly after graduating from college (which was coming around the corner for me at the time). They told me stories of lil' Asian kids screaming and bouncing around, having fun in the classroom; they told me how they paid off their student loans years in advance and how they got to learn a new language and culture while being paid for it (like a Travel Channel gig, but you get to stay!). It sounded perfect and later, as I looked into it a bit more online, that perfection only seemed to get shinier. So a season or so after graduating I went in to the Oxford Seminars of Boston and came out with a TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) Certification.
As far as teaching in Thailand, that took a bit more time. I originally intended on teaching in Taiwan at the same place as the young teachers I met at the store. However, after a few rejections (before I became certified) and some good old fashion day dreaming, the thought occurred to me to check out what Thailand was like. I am half Thai, my father immigrating to the USA at 17 for school, and always played with the idea of living there (somehow) one day. I visited as a kid for a short stay, but don't remember much and I don't really know any of the family over there (except maybe a cousin or two). That and I've always been into martial arts (karate teacher and all) and the chance to take authentic muay thai is a huge plus for me. That plus the fact that the entire country is pretty much jungle/beach paradise with some of the nicest people culturally and a food that makes the French look like the English and it was almost a slam dunk. So, a few months after getting my certification (one month of classes and I'm already re-burnt out) I send out another batch of applications, this time to Thailand and almost immediately get a job.
I was stunned, couldn't believe it. Yeah, sure I was sending out apps, but I did that before and nothing came of it. But lo and behold, less than two weeks from first sending out my resume I have a job, a day I need to be in Thailand by, and living arrangements (the school, thankfully, will provide housing). This is the first of many instances in the following month of "Shit just got real".
They say "You go to Thailand for the lifestyle, not the money", basically because there is none. I'll be making slightly more in Thailand full time than I do currently working at my part-time, college, retail job. I've had to defer my loans and save up money just to make it through the first few months there. Even though I'll be making a lot compared to my local, Thai counterparts I still apply for all economic hardship check-boxes on pretty much any questionnaire from any loan office or bank thanks to the exchange rate (33 baht to a dollar). The first year, as you still learn the culture and language you also tend to get conned a lot so this is expected to be a very pricey job in the beginning, but the benefits should pay off many times over once I get the skills and knowledge to succeed at Professional Teaching on an International level.
People ask me all the time how long I intend on staying there and the truth of the matter is I have no fucking idea. I've told people everything from "forever" to "this is a one year contract" (which it technically is, but let's not get into that right now), but honestly who knows? If I like it, like the country, like the profession, like my family I could find myself staying for many years past even my own wildest dreams. I could finish my assignment then take off for Korea or Japan in a year or two. With this kind of job I can go where the wind takes me and not give a shit, and I really (REALLY) like that. But I do have a certain amount of plans. I plan on learning the language. I plan on learning the names of all my aunts and uncles and to get to know them and their families well. I plan on being a badass kickboxer with a crazy finishing move that harkens back to Tekken and Hajime no Ippo. So until I complete at least the first two, I think I'm stuck there for a while (let's call it a "few" years). And I do know, that so long as I do realize I hate children all of a sudden and that teaching English gives me brain-rash, then I'll use it as my meal ticket around the world as far and as often as I possibly can.
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